This project collection includes several in-the-hoop sewing organizer variations. Choose from a full in-the-hoop version with open quilting and tie closure for a full no-sew project or a mostly in-the-hoop with self-fabric button loop and bound edges or a combination in between!
The sample with the bound edges skips the last 2 colors of the last hooping (ITH lining) and is finished with a bias binding sewn in a more “traditional” manner. Personally, I prefer the look of bound ones rather than a turned edge, especially when bulky techniques like quilting are involved. This version also has a few other enhancements, some of which require just a few minutes of straight stitching. The double zipper pouch was made by making two of the zipper designs and varying how the pieces are assembled. Instructions are included.
The full in-the-hoop project is not at all difficult as all the intricate stitching is done by your embroidery machine. It’s a great project to use up scraps from your stash. If you need to purchase fabrics, fat quarters can get you going without a large investment in yardage.
If this is your first in-the-hoop project, I recommend starting with the easiest versions first. Once you see how I adapted the inside of the bound edge version, you can go crazy customizing your own. You can also use the plain quilted cover design to make quick organizers for other uses, not just sewing, perhaps with custom monograms for a special gift.
Featured Techniques
- In-the-Hoop Zipper
- Trapunto
- Programmed stippling and quilting
Please read all instructions before beginning!
Overview
The designs are set up so you can complete the project in the hoop by choosing to attach the front and back together in the hoop, if desired. If you plan to do that, choose a softer batting and stabilizer for the cover. Also, it is recommended that you use one of the covers with the lighter quilting rather than the stippled version.
In-the-hoop projects are great for those who don’t know how—or don’t like—to sew. Feel free to just embroider the outer section and customize the inside to suit your own needs!
Note that color changes are included on some design files simply to create a stop; please use a thread color that coordinates with your project—in most cases you can use the same color for all the color stops of both the zipper and the lining. If you are sewing on a multi-needle machine, please be aware and program your color changes accordingly.
For added durability, you may wish to sew the construction steps with a sturdier thread than Rayon embroidery thread. I didn’t do this as these areas are double stitched and often top-stitched as well so they are plenty sturdy.
If your fabrics are particularly soft and don’t have a lot of body, starching them can help make assembly easier. You may wish to lightly mist TESA onto pocket pieces to keep them in position during tack down stitching or just use a few pins or cellophane tape outside the sew lines. Do what you feel is necessary to achieve a good result.
This project requires an embroidery machine with a minimum 200 x 300mm sewing field. It is not split for smaller hoops and it is not recommended that you shrink the designs to fit a smaller hoop.
Abbreviations
- TESA - Temporary Embroidery Spray Adhesive
- ITH - In-the-Hoop
Supplies for Basic Version
- Cover with matching lining: 5/8 yd
- Inside pockets: small scraps or fat quarters
Outer cover
- 1 piece of neutral fabric for the cover (I chose a white on beige print) (10” x 14”)
- 1 piece of fusible batting, low loft batting, or fleece (8” x 12”)
- 1 9” nylon zipper to coordinate with fabric (can be longer; excess will be cut off)
Zippered pocket
From coordinating fabric cut:
- 1 piece 8.5” x 1.75” for top section
- 1 piece 8.5” x 4.5” for larger pocket section
Slotted open pockets
From coordinating fabrics cut:
- 1 piece 8.5” x 8” for front pocket section, folded in half to 8.5” x 4”
- 1 piece 8.5” x 9.5” for back pocket section, folded in half to 8.5” x 4.75”
These measurements are for pockets folded in half with the fold along the open end.
Lining fabric
For full ITH project
- 1 piece (8.5” x 6”) of coordinating fabric for upper lining piece, folded in half to 8.5” x 3”
- 1 piece (8.5” x 19.5”) of coordinating fabric for lower lining piece, folded in half to 8.5” x 9.75”
For bound edge project
- 1 piece (8.5” x 12.5”) of coordinating fabric for the cover (not folded) Stabilizer
- 1 hoop size piece cutaway • Use a heavy cutaway for outer cover for a sturdy product (may not be suitable if you plan to finish in the hoop)
- Use a no show mesh for a softer version or if planning to complete the entire project in the hoop
- Stabilizer for lining & zipper (no show mesh cutaway preferred) Other supplies
- Large button or ribbon for tied version of the project
- Short piece of gros grain ribbon, narrow fabric tube, or elastic for button loop closure
- Short piece of ribbon or cord for zipper pull, optional
- Optional: Fabric for bias binding if finishing with this method
Other Notions
- Embroidery thread
- Sewing thread
- Double stick embroidery tape
- Collins Washaway Wonder Tape
- Cellophane tape (shown in photos as gray duct tape for visibility purposes)
- Straight pins
- TESA
- Rotary cutter, ruler, cutting mat
- Basic sewing supplies Nice to Have
- Fast Turn tube turners, if making the self-fabric button loop
The Designs
This collection includes 5 design files, which are numbered in the approximate sewing order:
- lgp00401 - Fully stippled cover design with trapunto “Love to Sew” in relief on back
- lgp00402 - Simplified cover for faster sewing and easier turning
- lgp00403 - Quilted plain cover for your own customizing
- lgp00404 - ITH zipper design for zippered pockets
- lgp00405 - ITH interior to stitch all the pockets in place, button closure, and attach to outer cover
Worksheets are included for the various files in this project. Please note that the colors on the worksheets will likely not match what you see in your files. Use colors that work with your fabrics.
Instructions
Preliminaries
I’m a fan of prewashing/preshrinking fabrics before sewing. All fabrics were pre-washed and pressed before cutting for the samples shown here. I did not notice a significant difference working with starched versus unstarched pieces.
If you have multiple machines with sufficient sewing fields, you can sew the cover on one machine while working on the interior on another.
Process Overview
1. Choose finishing method (full ITH or partial) and based on that, select a suitable cover.
2. Prepare fabrics: cut and press. Press zipper smooth.
3. Embroider an outer cover.
4. Embroider ITH zipper.
5. Construct the button loop if using a self-fabric closure as shown in the samples.
6. Embroider ITH lining.
7. Attach outer cover to lining.
8. Hand sew button into place if using button closure
Step 1: Preparations
Start by choosing your finishing method. If you want a full ITH project, cover 1 with the intense stippling and trapunto’d “Love to Sew” lettering is not the best choice. Due to the heavy stitching, this cover is much harder to turn right side out. Covers 2 and 3 work best (and sew the fastest) for finishing ITH.
The second choice is to decide on a closure style. The tied sample shown here can be finished completely in the hoop with absolutely no hand sewing. The button loop shown could be replaced with a strip of elastic or ribbon.
Note when cutting fabrics that the full ITH version requires more fabric for the lining; this is due to the turning method used. Cutting, folding (as needed), and pressing all fabrics before hand will speed the sewing process. Feel free to use fabrics of your choice; quilt weight wovens work well.
Step 2/Hooping 1: Outer cover
1. If using a fusible fleece or batting, press fabric smooth and fuse batting to center of fabric using a teflon press cloth to protect your ironing surface.
Fusible batting will feel quite stiff until laundered. I used fusible on the bound edge version and polar fleece for the tied version.
2. Hoop the stabilizer and sew placement stitch directly on the stabilizer.
3. Remove hoop from machine and smooth double stick embroidery outside placement guides or pin fabric to stabilizer outside of stitching lines. Press fabric into place making sure batting extends slightly beyond the placement stitching on all sides.
4. Color 2 bastes the fabric into position; color 3 stitches the redwork, and color 4 quilting and zigzagging the outer edge. Colors 1 - 3 may be sewn with the same thread color
5. Remove from hoop and trim away excess stabilizer. Using the edge formed by the stipple stitching as a guide, trim allowing 1/2” seam allowance for ITH version or 1/4” for bound edge version. Set aside
Step 3/Hooping 2: Zipper Pocket
1. Hoop stabilizer and sew placement stitch directly on the stabilizer
2. Smooth down strips of Wonder Tape or other washaway sewable tape to hold zipper in
place.
3. Align closed zipper right side up along sewn guidelines, extending excess zipper length
at both ends. Zipper pull and metal end should be at least 1/2” away from any sew lines. I
prefer to place the zipper so it opens from left to right.
4. Secure zipper in place with tape outside of sewing area over the zipper ends
5. Place the upper zipper pocket fabric right side down over the zipper aligning fabric raw
edge just over finished zipper tape edge. (Fabric should cover zipper.)
6. Return hoop to machine and sew next color which sews seam and zigzags raw edge to
zipper tape (next color).
7. Fold over fabric away from zipper teeth and finger press into place.
8. Sew the topstitching.
9. Repeat steps 3-6 for the opposite side of the zipper pocket.
10. Remove from hoop. Trim away stabilizer taking care not to cut any seams. Test the zipper to verify it opens and closes.
11. Close zipper and square up section so that there is 3 3/4” of fabric from folded edge of
bottom section to bottom. Any excess on top will be trimmed off at the end.
12. Move zipper pull to center. Set aside.
Step 4: Button Loop
Choose a button and make a loop that can easily loop around the button plus 1” for 1/2” seam allowance on each end. Your loop can be made of elastic, ribbon, fabric tube, cording or whatever you desire.
To make the one shown on the sample, cut a 2” x 6.5” piece of fabric (loop will be cut to size later), fold in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch along raw edge using a 1/4” seam allowance. Use a tube turner to quickly turn inside out. Press with seam allowance on one edge. Fold as shown (seam allowances on inside edge) and top stitch pointed end to hold in place.
Determine the vertical placement of your button loop by finding out how much of an opening you need for your button. It is better to err on the side of slightly too long than too snug!
If you prefer not to deal with a button closure, you can place a single piece of ribbon at each end or skip the closure altogether.
Step 5/Hooping 3: Caddy inside
1. Hoop stabilizer and sew placement stitch directly on the stabilizer (color 1)
2. For Full ITH version: The two notches near the top show the placement guides for the folded lining pieces.
Position the bottom section first, aligning the top folded edge with the top notches. Then place the upper section, aligning the bottom folded edge with the bottom notches. This opening will end up under the upper zipper pocket and is where you will turn your ITH project right side out.
Secure the pieces in place with pins placed well with basting guides or TESA to hold. On the right side where the top piece overlaps the bottom, take extra care to ensure that the fabric is smooth, flat and won’t trip the presser foot during tack down.
For bound version: Position 8’ x 12” lining fabric right side up and secure as needed.
3. Return the hoop to the machine and sew color 2.
Place & Stitch Open Pockets
4. Align folded edge of back pocket with notches A, aligning raw edges slightly beyond basted guide at bottom edge of the lining. (Refer to pattern guide if you have rotated the design for your machine.) You may wish to lightly TESA pockets in place.
5. Align folded edge of front pocket with notches B or as desired, aligning raw edges with basted guide at bottom edge of the lining. (Refer to pattern guide if you have rotated the design for your machine.)
Notch B is a suggested placement. As long as this pocket is shorter than the back pocket and the raw bottom edges extend to the bottom placement guide, you can adjust this pocket to suit your taste/need.
If your rear pocket raw edges do not reach to the basted guide line, either recut your fabric pockets or move the pocket down to meet the basted guide. If you choose the latter, your pocket divider stitching may extend off the top of the pocket but this is not a big deal.
6. Sew color 3 to attach pockets
Place & Stitch Zipper Pocket
Be sure zipper pull is at the 1/3 zipped point (2/3 open) point! This will make your project easier to turn and prevent the foot from getting caught on the zipper pull as it travels.
7.
To attach zippered pocket, align raw edge of bottom of pocket with bottom edge of the stitched horizontal guide, right sides together (right side down). The seam will sew 1/4” below the basted placement guide and the raw edge will be overcast to the lining. You can use some tape to hold the pocket in place while you stitch, placing the tape out of reach of the needle. Stitch color 4 to attach pocket and overcast raw edge to lining.
8. Fold pocket over stitching line, matching top edges and finger press in place. Sew color 5 to top stitch bottom of zippered pocket, tack pockets to lining along the outer edge and mark placement of button loop.
Take care when stitching color 6 that the presser foot does not catch on the open pocket/zipper. A small piece of water soluble topping placed over the opening can prevent this mishap.
Place Button Loop or Ribbon Ties
9. Position button loop extending raw edges 1/4” beyond the basting stitches of the lining. Tape ends to hold in place. Sew color 6 to safety stitch in place.
If you used the ribbon tie closure, sew color 7 to safety stitch the bottom ribbon placement. I used a left over piece from my stash, which I cut to the desired length later. Keep bulk away from center of hoop at this point because the needle will travel down the middle after safety stitching the top tie and it can get tripped up if you tape down your ribbon before completing the top and bottom safety stitches.
Keep bulk away from center of hoop at this point because the needle will travel down the middle after safety stitching the top tie and it can get tripped up if you tape down your ribbon before completing the top and bottom safety stitches.
If using ribbons to tie organizer closed, make sure ribbons are secured inside outer seam line before proceeding. Tape works well for this.
Attach Cover Section: Choose a Method!
In-the-Hoop: If you are planning to complete your project in the hoop, place your cover piece face down, aligning the redwork area (curved corner end) over the zipper pocket (top end) and the other square corned end over the open pockets (bottom end).
Take your time to align carefully. You can check your placement before stitching by advancing the needle through the first pass of the outer seam and checking its alignment with the edge of the trapunto or quilting stitching. Adjust until you are happy and secure in place with pins, angling them into each corner and out of the outer seam edge.
If you used the single button loop attachment, skip the next color (color 7, second ribbon safety stitch). Stitch the last color to sew the last seam.
Remove from hoop. Trim excess fabric to 1/2 seam allowances. Grade seam allowance by trimming back batting to zigzag stitching. Trim off corners to reduce bulk.
Carefully cut through stabilizer on lining side behind the zipper and turn project right side out through the overlapped lining sections and press. Hand whip stitch the opening closed or fuse overlap together with fusible web.
Bound Edge Finish: Remove lining section from hoop. Align cover over lining, wrong sides together with the redwork area (curved corner end) over the zipper pocket (top end) and the other square corner end over the open pockets (bottom end). Cover should be facing up.
Using a rotary cutter and ruler, trim off excess fabric using the outer edge of the trapunto/quilted area as a guide for a quarter inch seam allowance (cut edge should be just outside of the zigzag outer edge.
I cut my bias binding strips 2.5” wide and used a traditional quilting binding technique. Use your favorite binding method to finish.
Finishing
Attach button if you chose that method or trim ribbon ties to desired length. Loop a piece of ribbon through the zipper tab and tie in a knot, if desired.
Variations
Once you’re comfortable with the basic construction, feel free to customize your sewing organizer.
On the inside of the bound version, I machine top-stitched the top edge of the open pockets 1/4” from the fold line. I also stitched an extra divider for the front lower pocket. This can’t be done in the hoop unless you add in more hoopings. Because it is very basic straight sewing, even a beginner can do it and besides, it’s much faster than hooping and more conservative of stabilizer.
Additionally, the shorter front pocket has been placed above the suggested notch B placement. The measurements given in the supplies list are adequate for this placement.
You’ll also notice this version has two zippered pockets. No extra files are need for this, just another hooping for the second zipper and slightly different order of fabric placements.
Open Pocket Modifications
After folding pockets, top stitch along upper folded edge using coordinating thread. Align the pockets and sew an extra divider stopping at the top edge of the front pocket. It’s a good idea to reinforce this area with some extra stitches.
Creating a Double Zipper Pocket
If you’re familiar with how the zipper pocket was created for the standard version, then you can create this one with just a few variations. Cut two each of the pocket pieces. I’ve used two different fabrics: a floral mini-print for the first pocket and a mini check for the second.
1. Sew the first three colors/steps of the ITH zipper, which includes the zipper placement guide; seam and overcasting of top segment; and top stitching of the top segment using the top piece for pocket 1.
2. Line up the top piece of the second pocket with the bottom piece of the first pocket, matching their top edges.
3. Treat these two pieces as one and finish the pocket as before
4. Hoop another piece of stabilizer for the second zipper. Sew the placement stitches and align the zipper. The small checked segment from the previous pocket unit is the top segment. Align the raw edge of this piece face down with the edge of the zipper tape and sew seam and overcast. Then flip over and sew the top stitching.
5. Attach the bottom piece of the second zipper pocket following the directions for the basic version.
6. Trim the pocket to size by measuring down 3.75” and trimming off the excess on both bottom pieces evenly.
7. The double zipper pocket unit is now treated the same as the single zipper pocket for aligning and stitching to the inside of the organizer.
Merge in another design or create your own lettering.
