These padded snap-closure glasses cases sew up quickly with your embroidery machine and then can be fnished with some simple sewing. The front and back panels are pieced and quilted in the hoop and the lining is applied there as well. To fnish, you’ll insert short strips of metal measuring tape, stitch the front to the back and turn right side out. To open the bag, grasp the triangular “handles” and pull in opposing directions. The metal measuring tape inserted in the casings at the top of the bag keeps the small pouch securely closed.
The collection version includes two quilted panels and four diferent panels with eyeglasses. Sew any two to fnish the project.
Want a plain case? Use either of the quilted panels for both sides. My iPhone 6S just fts into this case so it can be used for other purposes.
Finished size of the case is 4” x 7½” >
ABBREVIATIONS
- TESA - Temporary Embroidery Spray Adhesive
- ITH - In-the-Hoop
- WSS - Water soluble stabilizer
SUPPLIES
General
- Small bits of fabric. If you need to purchase fabric, select several coordinating fat quarters
- Small bits of cotton batting or fusible feece. I used batting scraps left over from other
projects. An 8 x 10” piece will work. Choose a thin batting. Polyester battings can melt
when pressed; avoid them. - Small amounts of light weight fusible interfacing for casing strips
- Stabilizer: tearaway, wash-away, or no-show mesh. I used mesh; wash-aways can shrink
when pressing. - Coordinating thread. While each design has multiple colors to force the machine to stop,
each one can be sewn in just one color, if desired. - 3/4” wide retractable metal tape measure to create the snap closure. Use a good quality one, not the cheap variety. Also, look for one with a case that can easily be taken apart. Some of the plastic ones aren’t easily separated and you’ll want to get the tape out of the case. Once you cut of the end tab of the tape measure, there won’t be anything preventing it from zipping back into the case.
- Duct tape or other heavy tape
- Spray starch
- TESA
- Cellophane tap
Equipment
- Rotary cutter, acrylic ruler, and cutting mat for accurately cutting pieces
- Embroidery machine with a minimum sewing feld of 4.75” x 8.25”
- Sharp, heavy duty cutters for trimming tape measure. They need to be strong enough to
cut and not just bend the corners when curving of the sharp corners. - Screwdriver to open up the tape measure
Optional
- Narrow ribbon or constructed self-fabric strip for loop
- Beads or hot-fx crystals for additional embellishment
- Paint or ink and brush
- Hardware for the optional loop: D-ring, swivel hook. I made my fnished loop straps 1/2”
wide. Choose hardware size based on your strap width.
If you plan on making these in quantity—say for gifts or for selling, trace the pattern pieces onto quilter’s template stock for faster and more accurate fabric cutting
WHAT’S INCLUDED IN THE FULL COLLECTION
- Illustrated instructions (this document)
- 3 page PDF of full-size pattern pieces
- 1 page PDF layout guide
- 6 multi-format embroidery designs 117mm x 206mm (4.6” x 8.11”)
Any individual versions that may be available will include only the designs required for the one version.
ABOUT THE DESIGNS
There are six designs included with this collection:
- lgp00501 - Grid quilted panel
- lgp00502 - Meander quilted panel
- ; lgp00503 - Round glasses quilted panel
- lgp00504 - “Cat eyes” glasses quilted panel
- lgp00505 - Square glasses quilted panel
- lgp00506 - Aviator glasses quilted panel
Select any two panels to make your own project. On the black and white one, I painted in the
glasses using DecoArt SoSoft paint.
Please read all instructions before beginning!
CHOOSING FABRICS
I used quilting cottons for my cases. These little projects are a great way to use up scraps as they use very little fabric and you can mix and match as you choose. You can also use other fabrics—silks and satins would make an elegant version. If your fabrics ravel easily, are stretchy, slippery, or wimpy, fusing an interfacing to the back can help.
On the red and white sample, I used the same color for the casing, lining, and pull tab. I mixed it up a little more on the black and white one. I really like that spot of red on the front.
If you make your pattern pieces out of translucent quilter’s template stock, you’ll not only have a sturdier pattern, you’ll have something that will let you fussy cut fabrics to showcase a particular part of the design.
Your color combinations are virtually unlimited here. You can go subtle or bold or wild—it’s your choice.
These very small bags will be hard to top stitch along the top edge. Using the same fabric for both the lining and the casing, while not required, will make the edge less visible.
Seam allowances are 1/4” and use the stitching guides on the design.
GETTING STARTED
1. Print pattern pieces making sure they are printed at actual size.
2. Cut your fabric and batting pieces. This project is digitized for precut appliqué pieces. The batting can be applied as a larger piece and then trimmed back after the tack down stitch. Refer to the notes on the pattern pieces
On page 3 of the patterns PDF, I’ve made a list of labels for each piece and the order in which they are placed. Cut these out and pin to your cut piecesto keep them organized.
3. Press all fabrics and starch if desired.
4. Apply interfacing to the casing pieces.
5. Make the prairie points. The prairie points are made from the 2½” squares of fabric.
Fold each square in half on the diagonal and then again in half to make a quarter triangle. Press well. A bit of spray starch will help keep it fat.
6. Optional #1: Loop Handle: Make a self-fabric loop or cut a length of ribbon for a loop for a short handle or hanging loop. To determine the length, decide how long the loop should be, for example 2”, double that and add ½” for the seam allowance.
If you’re adding any hardware like D-rings or hooks to your loop, make sure the loop is long enough that you won’t hit the hardware when stitching the side seams.
For a self fabric loop, I made mine to look like a continuation of the decorative band. Cut your fabric 2” wide and to the length you determined above. I like to make mine a bit longer and then trim to size later. Cut interfacing to the same length and 1” wide (or half the width if you’re making a diferent width loop).
Press the strip in half lengthwise. Then open the strip and press fold each long edge matching the raw edge to the center fold. Refold the piece and press well.
Top stitch 1/8” from the edges starting on the side with the two folded edges.
If you’re adding hardware, slide it on now, making sure the prettiest side of your top stitching will be on the outside when folded in half.
Top stitch across the loop near the hardware to hold it in place.
7. Optional #2, Loop Pulls: Instead of using the triangular prairie point pulls, you can make small ribbon or fabric loops. Place the cut ends just over the placement stitching lines at the prairie point placement step.
EMBROIDERY
You’ll note from the photos that I stitched both the front and back in the same hoop. If you have a large enough hoop and you can secure your stabilizer well enough, you can do the same. Or, if you have a “compound hoop” or suitable multi-position hoop, you may be able to sew both designs in one of those hoops, sewing one piece in the frst position and the second in another position.
1. Hoop stabilizer securely between the rings of your hoop.
If your hoop is not secure on the long straight sides, take measures to make it so. One way is with duct tape. Tear strips in half lengthwise, apply to the back of the stabilizer along the hoop edges and wrap up and around the sides of the hoop.
2. Sew color 1.
This is the placement line for your batting. Lightly mist the batting back with TESA and smooth over the stitching lines.
3. Sew color 2.
This is the tackdown stitch for the batting. Remove the hoop from the machine and place it on a smooth fat surface. Carefully trim of any excess batting. This line is your seam line and applying the batting in this manner will minimize the bulk in the seam.
Sew color 3.
This is the placement line for the bag pieces and also the cutting line for the project. The slight indent near the top is a placement guide for the main body piece.
With the right side up, align the main bag piece top with the indent guides and smooth the fabric over the batting. I didn’t use any TESA; the fabric “sticks” to the batting. A few short strips of tape can hold the fabric in place if you’d like.
5. Sew color 4.
This will tack down the outer edge of the fabric and sew a straight stitch across the top.
6. Sew color 5.
This color is the quilting or decorative design.
7. Place the decorative band face down, matching the top edge of the band with the top edge with the indented placement guides and the top edge of the body fabric.
8. Sew color 6.
This step attaches the decorative band to the bag front. After stitching, fold the strip up and finger press in place.
I found fnger pressing to work quite well with no need to use a mini-iron. If your pieces are lifting up after fnger pressing, some small pieces of strategically placed cellophane tape works well and won’t gum up the needle if sewn through. Be sure to remove it after stitching the piece.
9. Sew color 7.
This step sews a placement guide for a triangular prairie point pull.
10. Place the prairie point.
Align the top edge of the prepared prairie point just over the stitched guides (right side up). Some tape placed horizontally across the middle of the triangle will hold it in place for stitching. If you’re using a diferent type of pull, center it over this stitching line.
11. Sew color 8.
This step sews a reinforcing stitch over the prairie point.
12. Place the interfaced casing piece.
The casing piece is placed face down, matching the top edge to the placement line.
13. Sew color 9.
This step stitches the bottom edge (folded edge) to the top of the decorative band.
Fold up the bottom edge and fnger press in place. The raw edge may extend beyond the top placement line. I added a small amount to the vertical measurement of this piece as a bit of insurance so the piece would not fall short. Just trim of the excess when you remove the piece from the hoop.
14. Sew color 10.
This step attaches the top edge of the casing to the body of the bag.
15. Place the lining piece and sew color 11.
Position the lining face down aligning within the placement guide stitching and stitch the final color.
16. Finishing the embroidery.
When all the embroidery stitching is complete, remove the project from the hoop and remove excess stabilizer.
All of the designs in this project collection are stitched and fnished in this same manner.
OPTIONAL: EMBELLISH THE FRONT OF THE BAG
While the front is still fat, now’s a good time to embellish the glasses design. I chose to paint in the glasses on one sample. Use a small fat brush to carefully color in the stitching lines. This brand of paint also comes in a nice metallic gold. In working on other projects with ink and paint, I’ve found the best results are achieved when you choose a thread that matches the ink or paint you intend to use. Adding some crystals to the temple points on the “cat eyes” glasses would be a fun touch of bling.
If you’re not comfortable with a brush, these Fabrico Dual-Tip Markers are easy to use.
FINISHING THE BAG
You may have stitched other projects in the hoop that were more complete than this. However, we need to insert the snappy pieces and those must be done while the side seams are still open. And while that could be done with the project still in the hoop, we wouldn’t want to risk hitting the metal with the needle.
Attaching the loop handle could also have done in the hoop but it’s actually easier to do it when you’re fnishing the bag at the sewing machine. One one thing, you’ll be stitching through a lot of layers of fabric and you’ll have to take care not to hit any hardware. Plus, you’ll have more control over the placement doing it “manually.”
Also you may have seen other instructions for these bags that, while lined, leave exposed seams on the inside. This method will give a more professional result.
1. Prepare pieces for fnishing.
Trim of any excess seam allowance on the top edge. Press well, leaving the top seam allowances pressed upward toward the lining.
Understitch the lining to the seam allowances using a coordinating thread. I like to use a narrow zigzag stitch because I think it fattens the seams a little better. This stitching will help keep the lining on the inside of the finished project.
Pressing well and often will result in a more professional finish.
2. Even up the lining and front pieces.
Fold the lining down and if it extends beyond the bottom edge of the front, trim of the excess.
TIP! The lining here is the same size as the outer bag. Once you turn your bag right side out, the lining will be “too big” for the space. Trimming it slightly smaller or using a larger seam allowance when stitching the lining will reduce this problem.
3. Cut tape measure strips.
Using heavy duty metal snips, cut two strips 3/4” shorter than the width of the bag. (1/4” shorter than the distance between the seam lines of the casing.)
4. Curve the ends of the tape strips.
Using the snips, round of the sharp corners on each end to prevent them from cutting through the fabric over time.
5. Apply short pieces of duct tape over the ends of the metal tape. A layer of heavy duty tape will also add a bit of protection from the sharp edges.
6. Insert the metal tape strips.
With the outward curved side toward the outside and the numbered side toward the lining side, slide one tape measure strip into each panel between the two layers of the interfaced casing.
7. Optional: Loop
If you’re adding the optional loop, fold the loop strip in half, wrong sides together. Match the open ends to the raw edge of the bag at the decorative band. Stay stitch the ends within the seam allowance at your sewing machine. When stitching your front and back pieces together, take care that the loop end doesn’t get stitched into any other seams.
8. Attach the front to the back.
Smooth out the back piece with the lining extended, face up. Match the front, right sides together and stitch just along the batting edge on the front. Wonder Clips can help you keep the seam lines matched.
Continue using the same seam allowance or slightly wider on the back (lining side) so that the lining will lie smoothly once the bag is turned.
IMPORTANT! The lining here is the same size as the outer bag. Once you turn your bag right side out, the lining will be “too big” for the space. And, on small projects like this, that extra bit is more noticeable than on a large bag. If you sew with slightly larger seam allowances, it will reduce this “sloppy lining” result.
When you approach the casing, push the metal strips to the far side so as not to hit it with the needle. You should have about a ¼” of extra space if you’ve been precise in your measurements to this point. Backstitch over the casing ends and then proceed forward to reinforce the seams to avoid popping the stitches when you turn the case right side out.
Backstitch over the seams next to the casing. Turning the bag right side out with the tape measure is stressful and reinforcing this area will prevent popping the stitches.
Leave about 3” open on one of the long lining sides or across the bottom. I tried both the side and bottom. You can leave a longer opening on the side; but turning through the bottom is more of a straight shot.
Leave a larger opening than you might otherwise on a project of this size; the metal strips make the turning more difcult.
9. Trim seam allowances.
If you were careless is your cutting an placement using larger pieces of fabric, it’s a good idea to trim of the excess, especially on the quilted front pieces. Don’t trim the seam allowances by the opening you left for turning. Leaving them as is makes them easier to handle.
10. Press, turn, and press again.
Press back the seam by the opening to make it easier to close after turning.
11. Close the lining opening.
You can close the opening with fusible tape, hand stitching or edge stitching with your machine. I edge stitched mine—it’s fast, easy and since it’s the lining, it won’t show.
12. Insert the lining into the bag.
Stuf the lining into the bag of the case and smooth into place. My hand is small enough to get into the inside to smooth the lining into place. If you can’t do that, the eraser end of a pencil works well.
If the opening of the glasses case was wider, I’d recommend carefully top stitching the edge of the bag. If you choose to do that, take care to push the metal strips out the path of the needle.
Press one final time.
As a bonus, one of the rosebuds from Delicate Roses has been included with this project collection.
