Blog posts of '2024' 'December'

Appliqué is a very versatile machine embroidery technique. Creating free-standing ornaments and gift tags is fun and easy! With a basic appliqué tag design, you can add your own lettering or merge in other designs to create exactly what you want.

 

Skill Level

 

Basic embroidery skills. Novice or beginner skills with customizing software.

 

These instructions assume that you already know how to work with templates printed on fusible tearaway, a method I use most often for machine embroidered appliqué. If you’ve never used this technique, detailed instructions are included in the Appliqué Basics pdf that is included with most Lindee G Embroidery appliqué collections.

 

What You’ll Learn

• How to use simple yet creative techniques to expand your embroidery options
• How to make double-sided free-standing designs with appliqués
• How to customize designs with lettering
• How to resequence a design in customizing software to better suit your project

 

Selecting a Design

This technique works best when the satin cover stitching that finishes the appliqué sews last, as it so happens in the gingerbread designs on Gingery Christmas and is almost the case with this design. However, if we customize the tag with lettering, we’ll need to do a little extra work if we want a nice clean finished back with a satin stitched edge.

 

For this project, you’ll use the Gift Tag (lg002016) and add some lettering. There are two lettering designs in the collection that work perfectly. One is “Santa” (lg002025) and the second is “Holiday Greetings” (lg002017). Or, you can choose to add in your own lettering.

 

What You’ll Need

• Small scraps of fabric for front and back of appliqué
• Cutaway stabilizer (medium to heavy weight)
• Washaway stabilizer (fiber, not film)
• Light-weight tearaway stabilizer for printing templates
• Double-stick (pressure sensitive) fusible web for appliqué (Steam-A-Seam II or Pellon Easy Steam II)
• Gift tag design from Gingery Christmas by Lindee G Embroidery with templates
• One of the lettering designs or add your own
• Suitable embroidery threads
• Regular embroidery bobbin thread
• Bobbin of matching thread for the outer gingerbread color (last color in these designs)
• Temporary embroidery spray adhesive (“TESA”)
• Short length of ribbon or cord
• Eyelet cutter
• Customizing/Editing software (I used Embrilliance Enthusiast; it will also work in Embrilliance Essentials.)

Edit the design.

Open the design in customizing.

Merge in another design or create your own lettering.

2. Resequence the design

When a design or objects are added to a design, they will stitch after the last placed object. Normally this is not an issue. In our case, we need the lettering to sew earlier so that it won’t stitch through the attached back layer. We need to move our additions to just after color eight.

In this program, objects can be dragged to the order you like or you can right click on a object and choose from the menu

 

Save the file for your machine.

3. Alternative method.

Simple resequencing such as we just did in software is not difficult to do at your machine and works best with machines that have visual displays.

Load the gift tag into memory and then merge in the lettering design. Sew the gift tag up through color 8, then advance 2 color stops and sew the lettering. Finally, back up 2 color stops and sew the tag’s last 2 colors. Don’t forget to stop sewing after the tag’s last color!

I’ve seen people do amazingly complex resequencing at the machine to avoid using a computer. It requires close attention to keep track of what you’re doing. Me? Give me software!

 

4. Prepare templates

Print templates onto fusible tearaway and loosely cut around shapes to separate. (See technique in the Appliqué Basics instructions if aren’t familiar with this process.

 

5. Prepare fabric

Fuse a piece of cutaway to the back of each piece of appliqué fabric using fusible web. Press one template to front of one fabric and one to cutaway of other fabric to make a reversible ornament.

 

 

 

While the cutaway isn’t strictly necessary, it adds extra body and dimension to the design.

 

Cut out appliqués just to the outside edge of the pattern lines

 

At some point you’ll need to use the eyelet punch to cut out the hole in the tag. The first 
sample I made my punched eyelet lined up perfectly. The second time it didn’t. Because 
the satin stitching was designed to go over the punched edge, if you punch afterwards, 
you will be cutting thread. You can still make the hole later, but you’ll need to use some 
other method.

 

A better method is to slow down the machine when it gets to the eyelet. A running stitch 
sews just before the satin and you can manually stop the machine, remove the hoop, and 
punch the hole at that time.

 

 

6. Set up to sew

Hoop 2 pieces of washaway stabilizer. Sew the first color of the design (placement outline).

 

7. Place top appliqué.

Mist back of top piece with TESA. Remove the template from piece and position in the hoop 
within outline

 

 

8. Sew the tack down (zigzag) stitch and stop the machine.

Inspect the design to see if any areas extend beyond the tack down and trim off.

 

9. Sew design up until next to last color

Don’t sew last two colors! These two colors attach the back of the ornament

 

10. Place back appliqué

Remove the hoop from machine. Spray cutaway side of back appliqué with TESA, remove paper template, position appliqué in place, reset the hoop, replace the bobbin with the matching thread, and sew last color

 

 

11. Remove project from hoop and finish.

Trim off excess stabilizer close to the stitching. Remove remaining bits with damp paint 
brush or sponge. It is not necessary to soak out the remaining stabilizer

 

You’ll notice that the eyelet hole on the back is not satin stitched. This design was 
digitized well before the project was conceived. While I could have redigitized it, the intent 
of the projects is to show how to work with stock designs that are already digitized. Could 
you resequence in editing software? Absolutely! Is it worth the effort? That depends.

 

Looking for More Tag Style Designs?

Look for designs for badges and borders. These are often digitized as appliqué and work well 
with the techniques described here. Two collections you might look at are:

• Monogram Frames, which include some frames along with some coordinating borders. 
  Look for the designs that include appliqué.
• Badges, a collection of 40 appliqué-style “patch” designs that all work well for combining 
  with other designs.

If you want an eyelet, just extract those parts from the gift tag design in your editing program, 
paste into the badge or border design and resequence as we’ve done in this project.

 

Begin to look at your designs as elements that can be taken apart and recombined in new and creative ways

Elegant or cute and whimsical, the choice is yours! These in-the-hoop mini stockings take only small bits of fabric and are quick to make. They’re perfect for your holiday table or for mini treat bags.

 

This set includes 9 stockings that can be completed in the hoop with just one hooping. Each stocking is fully lined with no exposed seams. The cuff is free at the bottom, the way a cuff on a sock would be.

 

Four additional designs are included for adding text to the cuff. These must be stitched separately and before the main stocking. Matt down stitching is included for stitching on textured fabric. Skip this color change if not needed.

 

The stockings can be completed in a 130 x 180mm ( “5x7”) sewing field hoop. The personalized cuffs will work in a 100 x 100mm (“4x4”) sewing field hoop.

 

Skill Level

While this project is simple, it has a lot of steps and you’ll need to pay close attention to what goes where and when.

 

Some of the stockings include appliqué. If you aren’t familiar with this technique, you might want to watch this video: How to do Machine Embroidered Applique.

 

Please read through all instructions before starting your project! This project, while complex, is not really difficult because the embroidery takes care of all the construction. Cut and place carefully and you’ll have a successful result!

 

 Resizing is not recommended

 

Fabric Choices

I used a mixture of quilt weight cottons and polar fleece. For most of the stockings, I applied a thin cotton batting behind the front. Stockings that didn’t include batting were interfaced.

 

The cutting list included in the design worksheet calls for folding the cuff wrong sides together before stitching to the front of the stocking. If you use polar fleece, this will add a lot of bulk and it will be harder to get the stocking front smooth and flat.

 

Since this type of fleece doesn’t ravel, you can use just a single layer. With this method, you could cut the free (bottom) edge of the cuff with a decorative edge, as shown below

 

 

The key when choosing and preparing your fabrics is to keep in mind that the stitched project needs to be turned inside out twice so be aware of how thick and how stiff your fabrics are. For example, on the Santa because I used polar fleece for the beard so I omitted the batting and just interfaced the fabric.

 

Threads

I used mostly polyester embroidery thread. The holly design would look gorgeous in metallic. I did use gold metallic on Santa’s glasses.

 

About the Appliques

Applique patterns are included for the stocking shape as well as other elements for some of the designs. I did not precut the stocking shape. For the other pieces, I precut if I was using quilt cottons and applied fusible web to the back

 

Fusible web cannot be used on polar fleece so for Santa’s beard, I chose to use the trim-inplace method

.

 

About the Designs

Each design has a worksheet with a color sequence, actual size appliqué patterns, plus sewing and cutting instructions. Once you’re familiar with these more complete instructions, you should be able to follow the worksheet notes.

 

The stocking steps are the same for each design. The decorative parts all start with color 4. Assembling and finishing the stocking are the last 3 colors. I recommend you try making the Plain Stocking first so that you understand the in-the-hoop steps.

 

There are 9 stocking designs and 4 cuff designs. If you want an embroidered cuff, you need to sew that separately and before the stocking. The cuff design assumes you will be folding the fabric. Use this design as a placement guide if you wish to personalize cuffs with names

 

 

What You’ll Need

• Suitable fabrics, pre-washed and pressed. I used quilt-weight cottons and polar fleece. Tip: If fabrics are especially soft, starching can reduce distortion when stitching if you aren’t applying interfacing.
• Rotary cutter, quilting ruler and mat
• Stabilizer: I used Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer for knits (polar fleece) and wash-away tearaway for wovens.
• Batting: I used Warm and Natural (batting is optional)
• Fusible interfacing: I used Pellon ShirTailor
• Steam-a-Seam 2 for appliqué
• Steam-a-Seam 2: 1/4’ wide hem tape
• Scissors used:
• For trimming batting
• Thread snips
• Heavy scissors for final trim
• Suitable embroidery threads
• Optional: ribbons or decorative cord for hanging loops
• Tape (Scotch invisible, painter’s tape, or similar)

 

Getting Started

You’ll need to some prep work before starting the embroidery:

 

• Cut, press, and prepare all your fabrics
• If you’re making self fabric loops, make these ahead. (Instructions not included.)
• Stitch any personalized cuffs before stitching the main stocking design.

 

Stocking Cutting Requirements

• Stocking front: cut 2 4.75” x 5.75” of fabric & 1 of batting*.
• Plain Cuff: Cut one 3.75” wide by 3” tall folded wrong side together to 3.75” x 1.5”.
• Embroidered Cuff: Cut one 4” x 4”
• Back: Cut one: 4.75” x 11.5, folded wrong side together to 4.75” x 5.75” TIP: Applying a strip of fusible web at the fold line (on the inside) will reinforce the folded edge.
• Optional Loop: Cut twice as long as desired length + 1”

 

* Batting is optional and can make the project more difficult to turn and appear more puckered on the front

 

QUICK CUTTING TIP: If you’re using the same fabric for the front, back, and front lining, cut 2 pieces of fabric 5” x 12” wide. If your fabric is folded, this is just one cut. Cut the front fabric into 2 pieces

 

Optional: Embroidering the Cuff

The cuff design includes matt down stitches in case you are stitching on a textured fabric.

These should be sewn in the same color as your fabric. If you don’t need them, skip color 3

1. Hoop appropriate stabilizer and sew color 1 for placement

 

2. Place fabric. Sew color 2

 

3. Color 3 is a matt down stitch to flatten any texture. If you don’t need it, skip it.

 

4. Color 4 is the lettering

 

 

Remove from hoop. Mark center top. Cut out along tack down line. Remove stabilizer.

 

Fold in half horizontally, wrong side together. The lettering is positioned to align along the folded edge.

 

Embroidering the Stocking

1. Hoop appropriate stabilizer and sew color 1 for placement. This placement line allows for 1/4” seam. All fabrics should cover this line

 

 

2. Place batting (if using) and sew color 2. If not using batting, skip this color change.

 

 

3. Trim back batting to tack down stitching to minimize bulk in the seam allowances

4. Place top fabric right side up. Sew color 3.

This color will secure the stocking front to the stabilizer and stitch some additional placement guides:

 

• Top center is the center cuff guide
• Top horizontal guides are for placing the back fabric (top fold will match here).
• Bottom horizontal guides are for aligning the bottom fold of the cuff

Using a pen or pencil and rulle, extend these lines onto the stabilizer so they are visible later

 

Any decorative elements are sewn here. Refer to your individual design color sequences if not sewing the Plain Stocking

 

 

5. Place the cuff, aligning folded edge (or bottom edge, if you’re using one layer of fabric) with horizontal bottom placement guides and top center with top center guide. The cuff should be placed right side up

 

 

If you’re adding a loop hanger, position that at this time also. Place the loop with the raw edges toward the raw edges of the stocking fabrics and right side down. Extend it about 1/2” beyond the seam line.

 

Secure with tape in a such a way that the presser foot won’t “trip” or catch on any raised areas.

 

Sew color 4

.6. Place the folded back piece over the design aligning folded edge to the top horizontal placement guide. Sew color 5 to attach lining

7. Place front lining right side down over the design. Sew color 6

 

 

Finishing

Trim seam allowances leaving an extension at the turn opening. If you’ve included a hanger, leave it about 3/8” - 1/2” long to avoid raveling. (See photo later.)

Press back the seam allowances. Fuse a small strip of hem tape leaving the protective paper in place

 

 

Turn right side out through opening push out all corners and curves. Peel of tape on fusible web and fuse close.

 

Turn right side out and press.

 

Note: Polar fleece is damaged by heat so pay attention to what your fabrics can tolerate.

 

Variations

For the Holly and Snowman stockings, sew the decorative parts of the design after color 4 following the color sequence information included with the designs

 

For the designs with appliqués, pre-cutting the appliqués and using a fusible web is recommended for smooth, normal weight fabrics.

 

 

This method doesn’t always work well with polar fleece so you may wish to use the trim in place method. If you choose this option, you must trim right up to the stitching line! Only the snowflake stocking and Santa designs have been set up for trim in place.

 

 

For the Santa, the base stocking front fabric should be whatever color you want for Santa’s face.

 

On the stocking, I’ve set the toe and heel areas as separate placements to make it easier to use 2 different fabrics. The sample shows them in the same color

 

Getting Creative

You can add your own designs to the plain stocking or replace the text on the cuff. The small size of the stocking limits the amount of text you can include but many names could fit here.

 

On the Snowflake stocking, you can omit either or both of the additional appliqués (heel and toe) or keep the appliqués and omit the snowflake.

 

Experiment with different fabrics and threads.

 

Summary

As you can see by these samples, you can make your stockings in any color combination. Also, if you are experienced with software, you can add a monogram, name, other embellishment, or a design from your stash to the plain bag or the cuff. Any cuff personalizations need to be brief and kept to about 2.5” wide.