Blog posts tagged with 'in-the-hoop (ith) embroidery'

These cute little ornaments are quick and easy to make. They’re perfect little extras to stuff into a greeting card or use as a package tie. They’ll fit a 100mm square sewing field and can also be used as direct embroidery.

Skill Level

Simple. Just follow the steps!

Please read through all instructions before starting your project! This project has multiple steps that must be done in a certain order.

Getting Started:

Print the worksheet. It has full instructions that will make more sense after you make just one.

What You’ll Need:

• Good quality white felt
• NOTE: this deisgn is not recommended for vinyl (too dense)
• Stabilizer: ( I tested with cutaway and washaway tearaway)
• Opalescent Mylar film
• Coordinating embroidery threads
• Ribbon for hanging (I cut mine to 5”)
• NOTE: the last stitch is a triple stitch and may not secure really thin cords well. Knotted the end of the cord will minimize the chance of it pulling out.

Instructions:

These designs are digitized to be used with Mylar behind the white areas. They can be stitched as free-standing ornaments or used as “normal” direct embroidery.

The process is similar for all designs in this set. Individualized steps can be found on the design’s worksheet.

Stitching:

• Only the last color is visible on the back if you want a matching bobbin color.
• Not all designs have placement line as the first color
• Some designs have fringed pompoms

• For direct embroidery, stitch up to the stop before the last color. The last color attaches the back to the front for a clean finish

Finishing

1. Remove from hoop and tear off stabilizer carefully right up to the design outline.
2. Carefully trim around the design taking care not to cut through the hanging loop.

Detailed instructions and patterns are not included with individual design fle downloads. Please refer to the color sequence information for a basic guideline for stitching. You can print the design using any embroidery software to make a template. For a fully illustrated step-by-step tutorial formatted for printing along with actual size printable patterns, please purchase the full collection. Free instructions can be found in the following blog posts:

• One Hoop Wonder: An In-the-Hoop Zippered Accessory Bag
• How to Make a Quick & Easy ITH Mini-Zip Bag
• How to Customize A Basic In-the-Hoop Project to Make Your Own Designer Bag

HOW TO DETERMINE FABRIC SIZES FOR ANY BAG IN THIS SERIES

1. Using your embroidery software, print the design at the actual size. You’ll use this as a pattern to cut all your pieces.

2. If you don’t have any software, then stitch out color 1 on the cutaway to use as a template and add the same seam allowances.

3. I added an extra quarter inch to the sides and top and an extra half inch along the bottom for seam allowances. Precision cutting is not required, just don’t make them too small

4. The outer line is the initial placement line, and the final seam allowance is a mere 2mm inside this line so cutting them larger than I did for the photo sequence makes the final steps easier. The measurements listed here and shown on the cut-out pattern pieces to the right are sufficient and will work for the other bags that use this construction technique.

5. Batting may be cut slightly smaller than the placement lines to reduce bulk in seam allowances. Batting is only cut for the front pieces and as a single layer (not on the fold)

Towel toppers are popular and easy to make—and even easier when stitched in the hoop. Use them with ready-made towels or ones you embroider.

This set includes 3 sizes and each topper requires two hoopings to quilt the front and back. I finished mine with magnetic snaps. Other options are Kam Snaps or buttons and buttonholes.

To the right you can see the small version both open and closed. With the magnetic snaps, you only see the closures when the topper is open. When closed, you just see the fabric.

All 3 toppers are the same height; only the width varies.

Watch the Video

There is a full video on how to make the in-the-hoop towel topper on YouTube: In-the-Hoop Towel Toppers with your Embroidery Machine.

You’ll also see samples using the Dessert Recipes designs that I’ve colored with InkTense Pencils. To learn more about that technique, watch Coloring Embroidery with InkTense Pencils.

Skill Level

Simple. Does require finishing with a sewing machine to edge the towel in place.

Please read through all instructions before starting your project! This project, while complex, is not really difficult because the embroidery takes care of all the construction. Cut and place carefully and you’ll have a successful result!

Resizing is not recommended

Getting Started

Print the worksheet for the sizes you intend to sew. These include color sequences, cutting instructions, and basis sewing steps. Once you’ve followed these instructions once, the steps listed in the worksheet will be easy to follow.

What You’ll Need

• Suitable fabrics, pre-washed and pressed. I used quilt-weight cottons
• Stabilizer: I used wash-away tearaway
• Batting: I used Warm and Natural (batting is optional)
• Snaps: I used magnetic snaps
• Scissors used:
• For trimming batting
• Thread snips
• Heavy scissors for final trim
• Suitable embroidery thread

Cutting Requirements

All three towel toppers are the same height; only the width varies.

If you’re using the same fabric front and back, you can cut the front, back, and batting to the same size using a rotary cutter and ruler.

• Small : cut 2 6.5” x 10.5” of fabric & 1 of batting
• Medium : cut 2 8” x 10.5” of fabric & 1 of batting
• Large : cut 2 9.5” x 10.5” of fabric & 1 of batting

I used the small size on purchased kitchen towels and the largest one on the my embroidered recipe towels. These towels are 38” square flour sack towels. For both sizes, I cut the towels in half.

General Process:

The towel topper is stitched in two hoopings:

1. The back must be stitched first and is essentially appliqued to the hooped stabilizer and the quilting stitches are sewn. I did not use any batting on the back.
2. The front is sewn second. Batting is attached to the stabilizer first and trimmed back. Then the front fabric is placed and quilted. Finally the back is attached.

Let’s get started.

Stitching the Back

1. Hoop appropriate stabilizer and sew color 1 for placement. This placement line includes seam allowances and is slightly larger than the front panel

1. Place the back fabric face up over the placement guides allowing it to extend evenly on all sides.

1. Stitch the rest of the design, which is a diamond quilting pattern.
2. Remove the design from the hoop and cutout following the placement guide.
3. Fold in half vertically and clip a small notch at the center top and center bottom for placement guides

Stitching the Front

1. Hoop appropriate stabilizer and sew color 1 for placement.
2. Place the batting over the stitching line and sew color 2 to attach.
3. Remove the hoop and trim back the batting to the stitching line. This will minimize the bulk in the seams. Notice that there is extra space between the bottom of the batting and the bottom of the fabric. This area will be turned up for the “hem.”

1. Place the front fabric face up allowing it to extend evenly beyond the outer placement line on all sides. Sew color 3 to attach the fabric.
2. Color 4 is the quilting.
3. Color 5 is a placement line for the back panel.

1. Align the back piece right side down over the embroidery. Secure with tape or spray as desired. Sew the last color to attach the two pieces. (The back is slightly larger than the front for a “fudge factor.”

Finishing

Trim seam allowances and clip curves.

Turn right side out and press. Turn up the hem at the bottom of the batting, making sure the bottom folded edge is straight and even; press.

Add Snaps

I added the snaps only to the front panel so they are only visible when the topper is open.

There are placement guides stitched for positioning the snaps.

Place the male snap at the top and the female one on the bottom. Follow the instructions with the snaps you are using.

• Tip : A small square of cutaway placed on the inside can add strength to the snap area and make it more durable.

Preparing the Towel

Depending on your towel size, you may want to cut it in half. This way you can have a matching pair from just one towel. Pleat or gather the top of the towel to fit the width of the topper.

Insert the top edge of the towel into the topper about 1/2”. Pin in place and edge stitch the top-per

Hang it Up

About the Sizes

The smallest size is perfect for standard sized purchased towels. The larger ones work best with larger towels. I used the largest size for these recipe towels, which were made with 38” square flour sack towels. Embroider one design on each end and cut in half for two finished toppered towels.