Blog posts of '2024' 'November'

Be honest. We all know the perfect person for the “Perfect Man” apron and that person may be either male or female! I’ve also stitched this on sweatshirts without the doily and every time I give one, I hear a chorus of “will you make me one too?”

Shown here, the project can be sewn in a 5x7” hoop with three hoopings. If you have a larger hoop, you can consolidate a few hoopings.

The doily is not embroidered, it is simply a purchased one that I’ve zigzag stitched with my sewing machine using invisible thread. To keep the project moving along quickly, I used a purchased apron, which you can find easily on-line.

There are four variations on the appliqué gingerbread guy design and there are variations of the lettering to include “The Perfect Woman.” Also, there is a version of the phrase that uses the word “grief” instead of “crap” for those sensitive to the latter word. (What can I say? I’m not…)

Skill Level

Basic embroidery skills.

What You’ll Learn

• How to plan and layout a multi-placement design project.
• How to appliqué using templates.
• What order to sew combined designs.
• Why you should avoid color sorting. Supplies
• Gingery Christmas design collection by Lindee G Embroidery
• Purchased or pre-made apron
• Purchased doily (can be any shape desired; mine is square). The large gingerman is about 4.5” tall so find one the size you like.
• Temporary embroidery spray adhesive (TESA)
• Scissors, sharp double curve embroidery scissors best
• Embroidery threads as desired for designs
• Mono filament thread to stitch doily to apron
• Fusible web product for appliqué (I prefer double-stick pressure-sensitive products like Pellon Easy Steam or Steam-A-Seam II)
• Printed templates from collection for selected appliqués
• Appliqué tacking iron
• Ruler
• Stabilizers: Tearaway (I used washaway tearaway because it isn’t as crisp so it rehoops better), fusible tearaway for template printing
• Chalk marker or other tool for temporary marking
• Embroidery software to print designs for placement
• Cellophane tap

General Instructions

These instructions assume you already know how to appliqué using the template method. If you’ve never done machine embroidered appliqué using precut pieces instead of stitching down a larger piece of fabric and then trimming it away (what I call the “blob” method), please read the included Appliqué Basics first! Applique Basics will cover how to prepare your appliqué pieces for use in this project as well as explain the full process for machne embroidered appliqué.

Project Instructions

1. Select designs and prepare.

Start your project by selecting the designs you’ll be using.

Print your embroidery designs from your software with cross hairs for placement. I printed mine in gray scale on a laser printer; you don’t need color for this step. Cut them out so they can be used for placement planning.

Print the appliqué template and prepare and cut out your appliqué design

2. Mark vertical center on apron.

Using your chalk marker and ruler, draw a line down the vertical center of your apron. I like chalk because it is fine enough, visible enough, and temporarily permanent enough for staying visible no matter how long it takes to complete the project while being easily removable when the time comes. Also, pressing with an iron does not impact its removability.

3. Plan placement and mark horizontal guides.

Arrange your cut out embroidery patterns along with your doily on your apron using the vertical line as a guide. You may wish to tape the templates temporarily at this point to keep them from shifting during the next step

Notice in the photo that the horizontal center of my ginger guy aligns with the horizontal center of the doily. Don’t be surprised if your doily is not perfectly symmetrical!

While you can combine designs in your software if you have a large enough hoop, I didn’t. I simply sewed each design individually as you’ll see in the next few steps. (It’s actually easier!)

4. Mark horizontal guides.

Using the cross hairs on the printed design patterns, draw horizontal lines with your ruler and chalk. Remove the pieces from your apron and connect the lines through the center.

5. Prepare the apron for embroidery.

Baste a large piece of stabilizer to the back of the apron using your sewing machine. This piece should be large enough to fully hoop with the apron and accommodate all the designs.

I used tearaway for easy removal. Although there is quite a bit of stitching, it is spread out over a wide area and there is no dense stitching. Also, purchased aprons are quite stable. If you are stitching on another fabric that may not be as stable, consider a different stabilizer.

6. Attach doily to apron.

There are several ways to attach the doily to the apron. I first fused the doily in place using fusible web and hen I zigzagged around the outer edge with my sewing machine using invisible thread in the needle. This gives the best of both worlds and keeps the doily looking sharp over laundering without eventually peeling off. You may choose to do one or the other, however, the fusible web may not fully secure the crocheted edges of the doily.

7. Position designs for this hooping.

Replace the templates you removed earlier and tape them into place, only using the ones that will fit your hoop. I have a fairly large hoop shown below and have arranged the top lettering and the ginger guy. The bottom lettering will be sewn in the next hooping and I’ll position that when ready.

If you have a 5x7 hoop, you’ll need to plan 3 hoopings and rotate the hoop for the center appliqué

8. Hoop for first stitching.

Center your hoop over the center of the design and hoop making sure the apron guides align with the center marks on your hoop.

To keep the ties from getting caught in the stitching. I’ve tied them up. You may also want to tape or pin them out of the way.

9. Turn on your appliqué tacking iron.

You’ll need your mini iron in just a few minutes. Turn it on now to make sure it is hot when you are ready to fuse the appliqué

10. Align needle over design center.

Load the ginger guy design and using the arrows on your machine’s control panel, move the hoop until the needle is over the center of the intersection. You can manually drop the needle and sink it into the paper to be sure.

Remove the ginger guy template before stitching!

11. Sew first color.

The first color in all of the gingerbread appliqués in this collection is the placement line, which is simply a running stitch to define where to put your pre-cut fabric. Notice in the photo below that the top lettering paper template is still in place

12. Place appliqué.

Remove printed template from front of appliqué piece and back protective sheet from fusible web. Carefully and precisely align the precut appliqué within the stitched guides.

13. Fuse the appliqué in place.

With your tacking iron, lightly fuse the appliqué into place to prevent it from shifting during the tack down stitching. I fuse the center areas more firmly and the outer edges lightly enough to be able to peel up in case I need to trim off any excess.

14. Continue sewing the tack down then stop machine.

I prefer to slow my machine down during this step in case there is any fabric slippage. The tack down stitch is a zigzag, which I feel secures the fabric better while avoiding any pleats and puckers that are more likely to occur with a straight running stitch tack down.

Manually stop the machine when the tack down has completed a full pass around the design.

15. Inspect your design.

Now is the time to check for any fibers that may have raveled off or for any fabric that extends beyond the outside edge of the zigzag stitching. Trim those off now for a professional result when the satin cover sews later. It is nearly impossible to cleanly trim them close enough later.

16. Align needle for lettering.

When the first design is finished, load the design for the top lettering and align the needle over the cross hairs on the paper template. Remove the template and sew the design.

17. Prepare second hooping.

Remove your project from the hoop and tape the template for the bottom lettering into place. Rehoop aligning the apron’s guide marks with your hoop’s center marks. Position the needle and sew the final design.

Because I have a large hoop, I was able to place the hoop so that the top was between my two areas of stitching rather than over previous stitching. Although the ideal position for sewing is the center of the hoop, I was not concerned about registration issues on the letter so chose this position to protect previous stitching.

If you watch the lettering sew, you’ll see that one line goes from left to right while the next goes back from right to left. Keyboard lettering does not do that but you can certainly digitize letters that way!

18. Embroidery is complete

Tips & Cautions

1. Do not color sort!

If you are combining designs in software or at your machine, you’ll get the best results if you sew each design individually. There are some machines that will automatically “color sort” designs for you at the machine and this “feature” cannot be overridden.

Color-sorting will look through your designs and combine repeated colors where it thinks it’s a smart thing to do. In my opinion as a digitizer, color sorting is seldom a smart thing to do because it can often increase registration problems while reducing finished quality. I’d rather spend a few extra minutes changing colors than end up with a project that I’m not happy with!

2. Sew larger designs first and lettering last.

Larger more intense designs put more distortion on the fabric and can pull the fabric out of square. If you sew lettering first, the baselines may end up crooked from all the pushing and pulling from the dense stitching. Although that’s not an issue in this project, it’s a good thing to know.

3. Sew from the center out.

You may already know this from quilting or other crafts. Working from the center of the project to the outside tends to reduce puckering. If you followed these instruction, you’ll notice we started with the ginger guy, who not only is in the center but is the largest element in the design. Again, not a big deal in this project but a useful tip in other ones with more intense designs.

Creating these little padded ornaments is easy if you have a design that’s already set up but what if you don’t? Then you’ll need to do a little extra work. For this bird ornament, I’ve deleted a few elements—easy peazy—and digitized an additional seam around the bird. While that seam is not rocket science digitizing, it’s not all that easy to draw if you’re not comfortable creating smooth curves.

And if you don’t digitize? Well then, just echo stitch around with your sewing machine or get the additional edited birds.

To get a bolder look, I stitched the bird with 30 wt. cotton thread. The outer seam was stitched in 40 wt. red polyester embroidery thread with a matching bobbin.

Skill Level

Detailed instructions on how to edit the design are not included here, simply how to finish the bird ornament, which is pretty basic embroidery. If you’d like ready-to-go edited versions, you can download them here: Fanciful Birds Ornaments.

What You’ll Learn

• How to use simple yet creative techniques to expand your embroidery options
• How to make a padded free-standing embroidered ornament

Selecting a Design

I created these ornaments from a previously released collection, called Fanciful Birds (lvp001). Many times after creating a design, I’ll think of some other way I’d like to use them that may require some modifications. Sometimes I just want to do basic customizing like changing the colors, resizing, combining with another design, or adding lettering. These are easy changes that even the most novice embroiderer can perform in a program like Embrilliance Essentials.

If you don’t yet have a customizing program or have one you don’t like or know how to use, you can download a free trial version of Essentials

Other times I may need to do some simple editing, deleting some elements or pulling out some part to use on its own. This, too, is relatively easy with some simple software like Embrilliance Enthusiast.

For other designs and projects, I may need to do a little digitizing. Learning to digitize to add some run stitches to a design can be very useful. Sometimes I need a basting line that more closely follows the edge of an odd-shaped design. Learning to draw and apply a run stitch is not all that difficult. Taking that skill one step further will allow you to make ornaments like this out of many designs.

If you don’t have digitizing software and would like something basic that will allow you to add simple stitches and doesn’t cost a mini fortune, check out Embrilliance Stitch Artist. If you’re already familiar with other Embrilliance software, you’ll already have a leg up on learning the program.

I chose to echo the outline of the bird for my ornament. Of course you could choose a shape in your software and use that for your stitching line. If you’d prefer to have edited versions of these designs ready to go for the ornaments, they are also available here: Fanciful Birds Ornaments.

When applying the stitches to my outline, I first stitched a single run, inserted an applique stop (or a color change), then repeated the line with a bean stitch. The first run will give me a guide for placing the felt on the back and aligning the ribbon hanger. Making it a separate color from the final bean stitch forces the machine to stop making it easier to remember when to add the back pieces and ribbon.

Thread Notes

These designs were digitized for 40 weight thread. I’ve sewn them in 50 wt. cotton and 30 wt. cotton on different projects. With the thicker thread, the individual stitches are a little less defined and little bulkier and the overall look is bolder. I chose a matching red 40 wt. polyester for the seam. It will sink into the felt and be less noticeable.

I used a standard prewound white poly bobbin thread and wound a bobbin with 40 wt. red. If I were doing a filled area and wanted a matching bobbin color, I would have opted for 60 wt. thread to keep the design from becoming too stiff. Stiffness and bulk are not an issue on these ornament designs because of their use and because the design is very open.

Using a heavier thread with filled designs can cause cupping and puckering because it creates too much thread bulk for the area.

I found I was successful using a size 75/11 embroidery needle even with the slightly heavier embroidery thread and experienced no thread breaks nor did the machine require any tension adjustments. All machines are different and some just seem to be happier with some thread weights and types than others.

What You’ll Need

I used felt for my ornaments. Another choice would be fleece or some other non-raveling fabric.

I would not go with a vinyl or some other “non fabric” unless it had a fabric backing; the design is too dense as is and could punch out a hole.

• Small pieces of craft felt. Mine is red with glittery specs and is somewhat stiff.
• Tearaway stabilizer
• Bird 1 (from Fanciful Birds) if you’re editing or Bird 1, modified (from Fanciful Birds Ornaments) by Lindee G Embroidery
• Embroidery threads as desired. I used 30 wt. cotton (white) and 40 wt. poly (red)
• Matching bobbin for the outer edge, standard embroidery bobbin for white
• 6-9” piece of ribbon for hanger
• Cellophane tape, painter’s tape
• Temporary embroidery spray adhesive (“TESA”)
• Fiber fill for stuffing
• Pinking shears. My favorites are Fiskars.

Instructions

1. Stitch the bird and the placement guide.

Hoop the felt with tearaway and stitch the bird design through color 2. Be sure to change your bobbin thread if you are matching your thread colors.

Although you don’t really need to change the bobbin thread until color 3, I changed it when I changed my top thread to red at color 2. One, so I didn’t forget to change it when sewing color 3, which is also red, and two, because it made an easier reference for placing the back pieces in the next step.

2. Apply the ribbon and backing pieces.

Remove the hoop from the machine but not the fabric from the hoop. Place the hoop face down. Fold the ribbon in half and tape in place with the cut ends within the sewing line. Make sure the tape is outside the sewing line.

I used a small strip of water soluble Wonder Tape to hold the cut ends of the ribbon together.

Cut two pieces of felt. Mine are about 3.5” x 5.5” for bird 1. Lightly mist each piece with TESA and smooth into place, overlapping them about 1/2”

If you overlap too much, the ornament will be hard to stuff. If you don’t overlap enough then the ornament will be prone to “gaposis” if you insert too much stuffing.

If you aren’t stuffing your ornament, then you can simply place a larger single piece to completely cover the back.

I also secured the edges with painter’s tape to keep them from lifting or catching during stitching. Make sure the tape is outside the sewing line.

When taping things to the back of the hoop, resist the temptation to press firmly unless the tape is only over the hoop edges. Just lightly press on the tape, then flip the hoop over, place the hoop on firm, flat surface and secure the tape into position by finger pressing well. Check the back one more time to make sure there are no exposed sticky ends curled up. Pressing from the front insures that you aren’t disturbing hoop tensions, which could cause registration issues.

3. Sew the rest of the design.

Stitch the last color change and remove from hoop.

4. Remove tearaway.

Before cutting out your ornament, tear away the stabilizer. If you cut first, it will be hard to pick out the tearaway.

5. Cut out ornament.

Carefully and evenly trim away the fabric about .25 - .5” away from the stitching line with pinking shears taking care not to cut the ribbon. I found that if I cut the back layer of felt under the ribbon first, then I could fold the ribbon over to the back and hold in place while I trimmed the rest of the design through all layers thus avoiding any mishaps.

6. Lightly stuff with fiber fill.

Stuff the ornament through the back. Since I stitched mine on felt, the lapped edges are not finished and I didn’t even stitch them together afterwards.

You could also make a small scented sachet bag to slip inside.

You can be finishing your bird ornament while the next one sews!

Troubleshooting

Making this ornament requires removing and replacing the hoop several times. Be sure to insert your hoop all the way each time or the rest of your design won’t register properly. Also, watch when working with the hooped fabric during the process that you don’t disturb the hoop tension.

Cotton thread produces a lot of fuzz, even if you only use it in the needle and not the bobbin. I brushed off the fuzz from the presser foot area after each bird and used a lint roller to remove fuzz from the felt.

Lint will also build up in the bobbin case. Here’s what mine looked like after only three birds!

Summary

These little ornaments are quick and easy to make! If you can’t or don’t digitize then the birds are also available already prepared for stitching into your own little flock. And truly, stitching around them on your sewing machine is not all that big a deal either.

Another reason you might want to stitch them with your sewing machine is if you only have a small sewing field that can’t accommodate the extra hoop space required for the additional stitching. The original birds all fit within a 100 x100mm sewing field.

You could easily adapt this technique for baby toys, pet toys, or scented hot pads. They make nice little package ties and look cute hanging in a window all year long!