Blog posts tagged with 'quilting'

Looking for a small wallhanging project you can update each month? How about this quilted and pieced in-the-hoop calendar block?

I designed this calendar block to just ft my max square stitching area on my machine and to work with the 175mm blocks from some recently digitized sets, Halloween Scenes 1 and Halloween Scenes 2. I’m just wrapping up a few more sets that will also work for Thanksgiving and winter months (snowmen) that are similarly designed.

I haven’t found suitable designs for every month yet but do have November and December plus a couple of spring blocks. Of course, you can work in any design you choose simply by inserting it after color 5.

For October, I chose the multi-color Kitten and Pumpkins design from Halloween Scenes 1. There are two sets of Halloween scenes that will work perfectly for this project.

Each set has 10 designs in multi-color and 10 as single color and each one of those is available in multiple sizes. I used the 175mm version so I could stitch the month name onto the attached borders without rehooping.

I stitched through the batting but not the backing for this project. It fnishes out at about 12” square. The center is stitched frst, then the side borders are pieced on and embroidered, and fnally the top and bottom borders are pieced on and embroidered.

I foated all the pieces onto hooped stabilizer. I chose to color in the center embroidery with InkTense colored pencils for additional interest.

SKILL LEVEL

Basic embroidery and customizing skills. If you’re working with one of the calendar blanks to create your own version, you’ll need to know how to combine designs by inserting a design after a specifc color change.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Suitable fabrics for blocks, pre-washed and pressed (Tip: If fabrics are especially soft, starching can reduce distortion when stitching. Rotary cutter, quilting ruler and mat
• Stabilizer: I used Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer. Other suitable choices are washaway backing and washaway tearaway.
• Appliqué tacking iron
• An embroidery machine with a minimum sewing feld of 11½” x 9¾” for the blocks
• Suitable embroidery threads and sewing threads
• Optional: InkTense colored pencils or other media for coloring

WHAT’S INCLUDED WITH THE COLLECTION

• Twelve ITH “calendar blanks” digitized for piecing in the hoop (preset for each month)
• One block with a ready-made design already inserted (Halloween block for October)
• 12 “month name” designs
• This instructional PDF

SUPPLIES

I worked from various fat quarters in my fabric stash. The measurements listed below are for the calendar block designs in this set; adjust accordingly for how the sizes you’ll be using and the hoop(s) you’ll be using if they vary.

• Batting: 14” square (I used Floriani’s Quilter Select)
• Fusible Fleece: 14” square, optional (I used Pellon Fusible Fleece)
• Center block: 8” square (I used white Kona Cotton)
• Sashing: 2 strips 2¾” x 8” (Sides) + 2 strips ) 2¾” x 13” (top & bottom)
• Backing: 13” square
• Binding: I cut mine on the bias at 2¼” wide.

SETTING UP THE DESIGN

If you’re stitching this bonus October Halloween block, just load the design to your machine.

Otherwise, use one of the 12 calendar block “blanks,” which includes the basic ITH steps for each month and insert the design of your choice after color #5, which can be done either in software or at your machine. The center area is designed for a 175mm square design.

The month names are also included separately in case you have a smaller hoop and are unable to do the project in the hoop. You’re on your own for working that out.

WHY AREN’T THERE DESIGNS FOR EVERY MONTH?

This set is designed to make it easy for you to select your own monthly designs. Not everyone celebrates the same holidays and while we in the northern hemisphere experience winter in December, my Aussie friends are enjoying summer.

Another reason there aren’t designs for every month is I haven’t found artwork for every month yet. I will be posting similarly styled designs as I fnd them and get them done. In the meantime, you’re able to create your own calendar blocks with your own designs.

HOW TO SEW

Start by hooping the stabilizer. I used Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer. Other good choices would be washaway fber or wash-away tear-away. Because I’m using a large hoop and my stabilizer is thin, I used duct tape on the back to prevent slippage between the rings.

I foated the batting for this project because I didn’t have enough to hoop all the away around. Hooping would have made the top and bottom month names easier to stitch.

The first color sews the placement guide for the center area. Use any color for this step; it will be covered by batting and won’t be visible. You can use the same color for the frst 5 color changes if it works with your center block fabric.

Center the batting over this guide. I layered on a piece of fusible feece, fusible side up on top of that. Sew the tack down stitch.

Layer the center fabric so that it extends evenly on all sides of the tack down stitch and press lightly to tack it to the fusible feece. Sew the second tack-down stitch.

When I was testing this design, I found it easier to accurately place the center block in a separate step rather than with the batting.

Sew the central design.

Attach the Side Borders

Using the tack-down stitches as a reference, align your side borders right side down making sure they extend beyond the tack-down stitches about ¼”.

Sew the side seams. Trim seam allowances if needed, fip the borders open, fnger press the seam and then press in place to tack to fusible feece. Pins can also help secure the side borders. Stitch the month names for the side borders.

Attach the Top and Bottom Borders

Repeat the process to add the top and borders. Make sure the borders extend to the outer edges of the side borders. Stitch in place, trim seams if needed, press open, stitch month names.

Remove from the hoop. Square up the block and trim borders to size. Mine are trimmed to 2¼”.

COLORING THE CENTER AREA (OPTIONAL)

One of the reasons I love redwork and color line designs is that I can embellish them with other media. For this project, I used InkTense colored pencils. I’ve tried a variety of media and these are by far the easiest, no mess, and most permanent media I’ve found that still leaves the fabric soft.

I lightly colored in areas and then used clear aloe vera gel thinned with water to a bit thinner than egg whites to blend and activate the ink in these pencils. The aloe vera will prevent the water from wicking into other areas causing the ink to bleed. When dry, the color is permanent.

Do apply the liquid carefully, brushing by area. If you get sloppy, colors can run together. Colors can be blended until they are set after drying.

FINISHING

I chose a fall print for the back, created a label using Adine Script, added a sleeve for a hanging rod, and fnished with a bias binding. Most quilters know how to do these things. If you don’t, do a search on YouTube for video step-by-steps.

EXTRA TIPS

If you don’t have a large enough hoop to complete the full project, hoop your center fabric, batting, and stabilizer and manually attach the borders. You’ll need to rehoop for the month names. You may need to cut your stabilizer and batting larger to allow for adequate hooping area for the month names.

USING OTHER DESIGNS

Another good choice for a monthly calendar project are the Birth Month Flowers of the Year. These designs come in filled, appliqué, and redwork versions and while optimized for a 200mm square sewing feld, these designs have been split and can be multi-hooped using a minimum 5x7” hoop. Just use the month names to create your own version.

SUMMARY

Projects don’t have to be elaborate. Yes, you could make a huge king-size quilt but small individual blocks like these are easy to turn into a seasonal mini-wallhanging or pillow covers.

Also, small projects like these make it easy to experiment with different media and techniques without a large investment in fabric, supplies, and time

This vibrant southwest quilt showcases 5 machine embroidered appliqués designed digitized by Lindee Goodall. The quilt was designed, pieced and embroidered by Lindee and quilted by Barbara Angerhoffer. The central piecing is framed with a turquoise 1” border surrounded by a dark 3” border of mini Kokopelli black on brown print and finally set off with a solid black binding. Finished size is approximately 36 x 36”

Skill Level

• Basic embroidery and computer skills
• Basic quilting skills (rotary cutting, piecing, applying borders, binding)

What You’ll Learn

• How to create professional looking appliqué using precut pieces and your embroidery machine
• How to quickly make perfect half-square triangles in the hoop

What’s Included

• Designs for appliqués and two sizes of half square triangles in the hoop
• Templates for hand or machine cutting appliqués
• Instructions for machine embroidered appliqué
• Project instructions (this document). Cutting and quilt assembly diagrams are at the end.

About the Pattern

The five machine embroidered appliqué designs were originally created to fulfill a request by my friend James Raymer at Dalco Home Sew. After researching many southwest designs, I drew the artwork to represent common elements in native artwork then digitized them. I was so pleased with them (I have a southwest decor theme in my home) that I decided I’d make a wall hanging to showcase them. I designed the quilt in Adobe Illustrator and with the help of my quilter friend, Jeanette Smith, we picked fabrics. Once I started printing out the pieces at actual size, I realized just how tiny some of those little triangles were! So to maintain accuracy, I digitized a grid for sewing half-square triangles with the embroidery machine. These designs are included with this pattern.

I didn’t start out with the idea that I would publish the pattern but after numerous requests, I dug out my Illustrator files, and here we are! The yardages are approximate but on the generous side; I mostly worked from my stash and pieces contributed by Jeanette.

Now that the license agreement with Dalco has expired, the appliqués are united with the quilt pattern and half-square in-the-hoop triangles as one project.

Foolish Assumptions

This pattern provides quantities and dimensions for the individual pieces and a visual guide for assembling.

Borders

These instructions assume basic quilting and embroidery knowledge. You should know how to rotary cut, piece, apply borders, and bind a quilt. No details are provided for quilting. Details are provided for machine embroidered appliqué in a separate document.

Seam Allowance

Scant quarter inch throughout.

Seam lines marked on pattern pieces are 1/4 inch, seam lines marked on grids are scant quarter inch.

Supplies

• Fabrics for quilt and appliqué (I used all cottons)
• Embroidery threads
• Stabilizer
• Wash-away fiber stabilizer or tear away
• Temporary embroidery spray adhesive (TESA)
• Heavy duty spray starch
• Construction thread
• Batting
• Supplies for appliqué (fusible web, tacking iron)

Appliqué Embroidery

Machine embroider blocks before piecing quilt. If you haven’t done machine embroidered appliqué before or haven’t done it using precut appliqué pieces, please refer to the separate instructions PDF, Appliqué Basics.

I recommend prewashing all fabrics used for the quilt and appliqués. I also like to prep them with starch to improve stability for both embroidering and piecing. Spray the fabric but don’t saturate, turn the fabric over and press until dry with a hot dry iron. Repeat with at least two sprays on each side always pressing from the side opposite of the one you sprayed. This will force the starch into the fabric fibers making them more stable.

I prefer hooping fabric so that it is secured between the rings of the hoop with the stabilizer. If you are cutting squares of fabric and basting them to the stabilizer for embroidery, be sure to cut them at least 1” larger. Embroidery tends to distort the fabric even when properly stabilized. Hoop the stabilizer, baste in the hoop directly onto the stabilizer, then smooth down your block securing with TESA and a second basting stitch. Hoop carefully so that embroidery is centered in the block. After embroidering, remove excess stabilizer and trim block to size, keeping design centered in block.

Half Square Triangles

There are many ways to piece half square triangles. If you have a favorite method, then use that one. This wall hanging has 24 very small ones (finished size 1 1/8”) and 32 small ones (2 5/8” finished size). Handling tiny pieces can be cumbersome so you may wish to try one of the grid methods explained below.

Grid Method, Automated: Half Square Triangles in the Hoop

If you have an embroidery machine with a larger hoop, this method is fast and accurate. Two embroidery designs are included for doing half square triangles in the hoop. The smaller half square triangles (lgp01006.*) can all be done in a 5 x 7 hoop at one time. The larger blocks (lgp01007.*) require a larger hoop (175 x 175mm). Each of these has 3 color stops:

1. Placement guideline for positioning fabrics in the hoop
2. Fabric tack down and cut lines for quilt pieces (this is a longer running stitch)
3. Seams (use regular sewing thread instead of embroidery thread

Embroidery Instructions

For stronger seams, use sewing thread instead of embroidery thread for needle and bobbin. You may also wish to adjust the tensions for a more balanced sewing type stitch rather than embroidery, where the top thread is pulled to the back. Although the entire design can be sewn in one thread color, you may find it easier to cut the pieces apart if you use a different color for the cut lines. DO NOT SCALE THE EMBROIDERY DESIGN OR IT WON’T WORK FOR THIS QUILT!

Do not scale the embroidery design or it won’t work for this quilt!

1. Hoop tear away or wash-away stabilizer.
2. Sew color one, placement. This placement line is slightly outside the cutting line.
3. Cut two pieces of fabric to the size of the cutting line. With right sides together, TESA the two pieces, TESA one side of the fabric sandwich and smooth into place within stitched guideline. It doesn’t matter if the fabric extends beyond the line but it must at least meet the line. Color 2 can stay the same as color 1. Color 2 will zigzag tack the fabric to the stabilizer outside the cutting line. Then the cutting lines will sew. The cutting line may not entirely trace the perimeter of the design but there will be enough of an edge to align your ruler for rotary cutting.
4. Color change 3 sews the seam lines. Choose a color that you would use for piecing.
5. Finish sewing the design.
6. Remove from hoop and use a quilting ruler and rotary cutter to cut along stitching lines of color number change 2 (make sure not to cut the seam lines…).
7. Press seams open or to one side as desired for project. Trim off points.

Half Square Triangles, Grid Method 2

Using the provided templates as a pattern, mark a grid on the wrong side of one of the fabrics you’ll be using.

Print the template pages at actual size for an accurate pattern. Acrobat may set the default Page Scaling to Shrink to Fit. Make sure to change it to None in the print dialog box.

Print on light-weight fusible tear away lightly fused to a piece of printer paper in an ink jet. Fuse pattern to back of fabric, sew on stitching lines, tear off stabilizer.

For the smaller half square triangles, the pattern will make all 24 pieces at once. Place fabric A and fabric B right sides together, sew as indicated by the dotted sewing line and then rotary cut on the solid lines. Press open and trim off points.

Use a light mist of TESA to hold the two fabrics together without shifting.

For the larger half square triangles, the pattern will make 8 blocks. Make 3 sets of color C with color D for 24 blocks. Make 1 set of color B with color C for 8 blocks. Cut, press, and trim as with the smaller blocks.

Assembling

Refer to the layout on the following pages for a visual guide to assembling the quilt.

Borders

Cut strips for inner narrow border 1 1/2” wide. Cut strips for wider border 3 1/2” wide. Measure the vertical center of the pieced top and cut the inner side borders to that length. Attach side borders. Now measure the horizontal center of the pieced top and cut the top and bottom inner border to that length and attach to top. Repeat in a similar fashion for the outer borders.

Once borders are attached, your quilt top is now ready to be quilted. After quilting, add a hanging pocket if desired, and bind. Remember to add a label!

Usage of this Pattern

You may sell sewn versions of this quilt as you wish. The copyright applies to sharing, selling, or otherwise distributing printed or digital copies of this pattern or the embroidery designs—don’t do it! You may also teach this pattern as long as each student buys their own copy of the pattern. All attempts have been made to ensure these instructions are accurate. These are the pieces I used to make the quilt shown on the cover. Never the less, no guarantees are made.

Add Borders

Grid Pattern for Small Half Square Triangles

Instructions

Layer fabric A and fabric B right sides together. Trace template onto fabric. Sew on the dotted lines. Cut on solid lines, press open, trim off points. This pattern will make all 24 of the small half square triangles.

If you print this page at actual size, the template is accurate. Measure the small squares. They should exactly 1 5/8” (1.625”).

Remember those soft plastic oval coin purses with the slit down the front that you squeeze to open? I saw one recently and had a flash back to one I had as a kid that was a ladybug. That memory inspired me to create this in-the-hoop zippered version that will work in a small 100 x 100mm (4” x 4”) sewing field. Also included are a soccer ball, a plainly quilted round mini zip and a square one. Add a small design pr monogram to these more basic ones or sew in a sumptuous fabric and embellish with beads or other trim.

Each project is fully quilted and uses an appliqué technique for finished seams on the inside. Precision templates are including for a professional result. Instructions are basically the same for all three; the ladybug version just has an extra appliqué step on the front piece that is skipped for the others.

In-the-hoop projects are popular because they require no additional sewing. A zipper can be inserted perfectly (and painlessly!). In-the-hoop projects, while not difficult, do take attention to detail. These little mini-zips have some rather unconventional steps when compared to standard embroidery. Take your time to read and follow each step. Once you’ve made one, you can breeze through the next one. If you cut and place your pieces accurately and you’ll have a professional looking result!

Featured Techniques

• In-the-Hoop Zipper
• Machine embroidered appliqué
• Programmed quilting

Please read all instructions before beginning!

Abbreviations

• TESA - Temporary Embroidery Spray Adhesive
• ITH - In-the-Hoop
• WSS - Water soluble stabilizer

Supplies

General

• 6” (or longer) zipper to coordinate with fabrics
• Small bits of fabric from your stash or purchase fat quarters
• Low loft batting, fleece, or just flannel for dimension (I used Warm & Natural)
• 3/8” wide ribbon for loop, 3” long or make a fabric tube for a matching loop
• Embroidery thread to coordinate with fabric
• Coordinating bobbin thread
• Tape (cellophane, double stick embroidery tape, and sew-through wash-away)
• TESA
• Appliqué tacking iron
• Soft, lightweight (non-stiffening) fusible web (I used Steam-A-Seam II Lite)

Stabilizers

• Hoopings 1 - 3: No show fusible mesh cutaway
• Fourth hooping: Either a cleanly tearing crisp tearaway or water soluble fiber based washaway
• Fusible tearaway for printing templates
• Scraps of water soluble to hold batting in place for front pieces

Using fusible fusible products and tapes reduces the need for TESAs. If you don’t have a fusible product, use TESA sparingly. Your machine will thank you!

Optional

• Narrow ribbon to embellish zipper pull, 3-4” long
• Beads or small buttons for eyes

About the Designs

The two round mini zips are exactly the same size and their templates are the same. The ladybug has identical front pieces; they are just mirrored. For the other mini zips, all the fabric front template pairs are identical, the stitching is not; be sure to use the correct embroidery design for each side.

These designs have multiple color stops to facilitate the various processes and offer design flexibility to choose colors that better coordinate with your fabric selections. Individual pieces are quilted (both sides visible on back section) via the embroidery machine and you may wish to choose your bobbin threads accordingly. Even if you sew the entire design in the same thread, do not set your machine to sew single color or it won’t stop when needed.

Select a thread color that coordinates with your project—in most cases you can use the same color for all the color stops of both the zipper and the lining. If you are sewing on a multi-needle machine, please be aware and program your color changes accordingly.

Because these designs use precision templates, resizing the designs is not recommended.

Ladybug Mini-Zip

• lgp00501 - Back
• lgp00502 - Right Side
• lgp00503 - Left Side (mirrored version of lgp00502)
• lgp00504 - Zipper

Soccer Ball Mini-Zip

• lgp00505 - Back
• lgp00506 - Right Side
• lgp00506 - Left Side
• lgp00508 - Zipper

Quilted Round Mini-Zip

• lgp00509 - Back
• lgp00510 - Right Side
• lgp00511 - Left Side
• Uses same zipper design as the soccer ball

Quilted Square Mini-Zip

• lgp00512 - Back
• lgp00513 - Right Side
• lgp00514 - Left Side
• lgp00515 - Zippe

Preliminaries

1. Print templates making sure they are printed at actual size. This project is digitized for precut appliqué pieces.

2. Press all fabrics and starch if desired. Press zipper tape if it is not smooth and flat.

3. Cut out fabrics and batting using provided templates. Each piece is labeled. “Lining” means the fabric will end up on the inside; “outside” means the fabric will end up on the outside. All mini-zips in this collection use the same rectangular pieces, which are repeated on each template page. The larger square piece is the outside of the back piece while the narrow rectangles are the lining pieces for the front sections.

You’ll notice that some pieces are shaped to the design and others are rectangles. The shaped pieces are to be cut precisely. The rectangles offer a more generous shape for the steps involving trimming. Batting pieces are cut smaller to minimize seam bulk. These designs were digitized and tested with a low loft batting intended.

All right and left front templates are identical and are provided for ease in cutting. Print the desired template page twice to have all the patterns required for all the necessary fabric and batting pieces.

How to Appliqué with Templates

Here’s my favorite method for working with precision templates:

1. Cut a piece of fusible tearaway to standard printer paper size and lightly fuse top and bottom edges only to paper.

2. Print templates at actual size onto tearwaway side using an ink jet printer. (Or photocopy if you have a suitable copier that prints at true size.)

3. Peel off tearaway from carrier sheet. Cut template pieces apart to separate. Fuse to front of fabrics.

4. Recommended: For red wing area of ladybug, apply a soft lightweight fusible web to the back before cutting. Choose one that does not add any stiffness.

5. Cut fabric templates just barely to the outside edge if the printed guides. Cut batting templates just to the inside edge. Accuracy is important!

6. When ready to place during embroidery, remove printed template, and position. Fusible pieces are fused before stitching. Pieces that did not have fusible web are held in place with a light misting of TESA. Oversized rectangles may need no TESA and often stay placed as is.

If you cut your pieces accurately, they will match stitching placement lines.

First Hooping: Back

This piece is quilted all the way through and both sides of the fabric will be visible when the project is unzipped. You may wish to use a matching or contrasting embroidery thread in the bobbin. If so, wind a bobbin for this hooping. Pay attention to the fabric placements. I like this approach because there’s no exposed stabilizer within the design to remove.

1. Hoop fusible mesh cutaway fusible side down and sew placement guide. (Color stop 1.) Two guide lines will be stitched. The outer guide is for aligning fabrics, the inner guide is for placing batting

2. Remove hoop and fuse wrong side of lining to bottom side of stabilizer (underneath hoop, right side down) using the outer stitching line as the placement guide. To fuse, use an appliqué tacking iron from the front side of the hoop to avoid disturbing the tension.

3. Position precut batting shape within the inner stitching guide on top of the hoop. Using a piece that fits this placement guide will reduce bulk in the seams

4. Layer top fabric rectangle over outer most placement guide, return to machine, stitch down. (Color stop 2.)

5. Remove hoop and trim off excess fabric to stitching line.

6. Stitch zigzag overcasting around outside. (Color stop 3.)

7. Stitch next color (quilting or soccer ball pattern). (Color stop 4.)

If you wish to customize your project, merge in your own design here.

8. Remove from hoop, trim stabilizer as close as possible to stitching.

Second Hooping: Front (Right Side)

See separate instructions for ladybug. Color stop numbers in brackets are for ladybug.

1. Hoop fusible mesh cutaway fusible side up and sew placement guide. (Color stop 1.) Two guide lines will be stitched. The outer guide is for aligning fabrics, the inner guide is for placing batting.

2. Place outer fabric over guides and fuse in place with tacking iron. Align batting under the hoop and positioning the batting within the designated guidelines. Hold the batting in place with a layer of stabilizer taped or pinned to the hooped stabilizer out of range of the stitching (beyond the rectangular placement stitches.) I use scraps of water soluble stabilizer for this. The stabilizer will keep the batting from going down the throat plate. Return hoop to machine. Sew color stop 2 to tack down appliqué pieces to stabilizer.

3. Sew decorative stitching. (Color stop 3 [5].)

4. Place the lining fabric rectangle face down over the hooped design and stitch the seam. (Color stop 4 [6].

5. With an appliqué tacking iron, press lining open and towards seam allowance.

6. Return hoop to machine and sew stay stitching. (Color stop 5 [7].)

7. Remove from hoop and trim off excess stabilizer as close as possible to the stitching. Trim or tear away water soluble in open areas over batting.

8. Turn lining to back and press along seam edge. To hold lining in place for last hooping, you can use some short pieces of strategically placed sew through wash-away tape or fusible web (make sure it won’t add noticeable stiffness). I used small bits of Steam-ASeam II Lite.

9. Trim seam allowances off excess lining fabric to match the top. Set aside.

Ladybug

1. Follow steps 1 & 2 for front side.

2. Stitch placement guide for wing. (Color stop 2.) Place wing section taking care to align piece precisely along the curved edge on the inside of the body fabric.

3. Return to machine. Sew color stop 3 to tack down appliqué pieces to stabilizer.

4. Color 4 is the satin cover on the wing. You may wish to use a different color for this step.

5. Align batting under the hoop and positioning the batting within the designated guidelines. Hold the batting in place with a layer of stabilizer taped or pinned to the hooped stabilizer out of range of the stitching (beyond the rectangular placement stitches.) I use scraps of water soluble stabilizer for this. The stabilizer will keep the batting from going down the throat plate.

6. Continue with step 3 for front side to finish.

Third Hooping: Front (Left Side)

Ladybug: If your machine has a mirror function, simply mirror this design for the other half, otherwise load the mirrored version of the design. Repeat steps for first half for this side.

Others: Load the left side design and sew, repeating the same steps for first half for this side.

If you have a larger hoop, both front sides can be combined and sewn in one hooping.

After this hooping, your front and back pieces are completed and are ready for final assembly.

Fourth Hooping: Zipper and Final Assembly

Although the inside is only partially visible, you may wish to use a matching bobbin thread. The last color change is a seam finish, which will be partially visible when opening the case.

1. Hoop stabilizer. Use either a crisp tearaway that can be torn away cleanly or use 2 layers of water soluble fiber.

2. Sew placement guide for zipper and front pieces. (Color stop 1.)

3. Position zipper and hold in place with tape. Place each front half, matching edges with the stitched guide on the stabilizer. The folded edge should be near the teeth. The top stitching will be placed along the guide on the zipper tape so make sure your front piece is between that guide and the zipper teeth. Hold in place with TESA or tape.

4. Tack section to stabilizer and top stitch each side. (Color stop 2.)

5. Test zipper to make sure it opens and closes and then open it to about 3/4 open with the zipper tab flipped upward along zipper teeth.

If you fail to open the zipper before stitching the ribbon and attaching the back, you will not be able to turn your project right side out or open the pouch!

6. Position ribbon or self-fabric tube for loop if using. Fold ribbon in half, wrong sides together, raw edges together. Align ribbon over zipper opening with raw edges to seam allowance and folded edge inside. Tape in place at for desired loop size. Stitch to secure. (Color stop 3.)

7. Position quilted back piece right sides together (right side down) matching the pieces and stitch guides. Hold in place with tape. (I removed tape as I got close to it.) Stitch seam and satin stitch the outer edge. (Color stop 4.)

8. Remove from hoop. Remove stabilizer taking care to not tear any stitches. A seam ripper can be used to skim along next to the stitching. If you used a water-soluble product, a small paint brush dipped in hot water can dissolve any exposed remnants.

9. Turn right side out.

10. If desired, add a small piece of ribbon to the zipper tab for a decorative pull. Add breads or buttons for eyes on ladybug.

This beautiful quilt showcases the twelve U.S. birth month flowers of the year. I’ve used a white background fabric and chosen softer colored batiks for the flowers for a romantic, vintage look. Each block has been sashed with 1” (2.5cm) wide white strips set off with coral cornerstones. A narrow border of small squares set on point frames the sashed blocks. The outer mitered corner

border is scalloped and adorned in opposing corners with a trailing vine composed of single elements from various blocks, most of which were edited slightly.

This quilt was designed, embroidered, and pieced by Lindee Goodall and quilted by awardwinning Tucson quilter, Nubin Jensen.

Throughout the last twelve months via the Echidna P.I.E. program, we’ve used designs from the Australian Birth Month Flowers of the Year series, five of which are also included in the U.S. group, to learn embroidery skills and create a project. Now we’ll use the appliqués from the U.S. flowers to make a quilt.

I’ve created two versions of the Baltimore Birth Month Flowers of the Year quilt. The Australian one uses vivid batiks on a black background with straight borders for a clean, contemporary quilt. Instead of an appliquéd border, I appliquéd the cornerstones. If you’d like something simpler than a mitered corner scalloped border with multiple design placements, you might prefer that one; instructions are available separately.

Echidna PIE was a series of monthly embroidery lessons based on the designs used in this quilt and was active from July 2014 through July 2015. Lessons and associated content are still available at EchidnaClub.com.au. If you’re brand new to embroidery, you may find them helpful for completing this quilt or expanding your knowledge and skill; they are not required.

These instructions are to complete the quilt and assume some basic embroidery skills. If you need more help, you can also visit LindeeGEmbroidery.com or my YouTube channel for a growing body of free content.

Skill Level

These instructions assume that you know how to do the following tasks:

• How to piece a quilt
• How to attach a mitered border
• How to bind a quilt
• How to stitch machine embroidered appliqué using precut fabric (See Echidna PIE Lesson 1, July 2014) or refer to the included Appliqué Basics PDF.
• How to combine embroidery designs in software (See Echidna PIE Lesson 5, Creating an Endless Border, November 2014)
• How to rehoop for precise design placement (See Echidna PIE Lesson 2, Perfect Placement Pointers, August 2014)

What’s Included

• Modified appliqué designs to recreate the border
• Appliqué templates for border designs (the actual appliqués have not changed but some have been mirrored)
• Pattern for scalloped border
• Instructions to complete the quilt as shown
• Applique Basics PDF file

A Word About Measurements

I measure stitches in metric (millimeters for density and stitch length or width) and most other measurements in imperial (inches, feet, and yards). Many of you work entirely in metric. For this project, I’ll put the measurements I actually used first and then the converted metric versions in parentheses.

For example, all my quilting rulers measure in inches so that’s what I use and my machine and embroidery software measures stitch lengths in millimeters. So, the instructions might read:

Cut strips to 2” (5.1cm) wide and stitch using a ¼” (6mm) seam with a 2.0mm stitch length.

Since meters are longer than yards by slightly more than 3” (8.6cm), I’ll simply round them off as even and the measurement will read “½ yd/m.”

Note About Links

In some cases, links to external web sites are included for more information on a technique or product. All the links were active at the time of writing but web sites can vanish and pages can change. If a link is no longer working, please let me know and then just use a search tool to see if the information can be found elsewhere.

Please read through all instructions before starting your project!

Baltimore Birth Month Flowers Quilt

Finished quilt size: approximately 45 x 54” (114 x 137cm)

Finished block size: 8 x 8” (20 x 20cm)

Feel free to adapt this pattern to your own tastes and quilting styles. If you want a larger quilt, consider setting the blocks on point or adding more or wider borders. The redwork versions of the design can quickly create additional blocks that can expand the size of your quilt with minimal effort.

Fabric

Yardage is based on 42” (107cm) wide fabric unless otherwise stated.

WOF=width of fabric

• Blocks: You’ll need to do some calculations.

Although each embroidered block is trimmed to a 9” (22.8cm) square, you will need extra fabric to allow for hooping. How much extra depends on the size of your hoop and your hooping method; you may need to allow as much as 18” (45.7cm) for each block. Do not precut your blocks smaller than 10” (25.4cm) before embroidering. This extra fabric may be needed if your design is sewn off center or crooked. Also, embroidery itself tends to shrink and distort the fabric; you will still need to true up your block no matter how carefully you embroider. By trimming your blocks when you are ready to piece your quilt, you can preserve a crisp edge on your fabrics. To make the quilt as shown, you’ll need enough fabric for 12 blocks plus any practice or replacement blocks.

• Appliqués: Fat quarters or scraps in your choice of colors
• Sashing Strips: ⅜ -½ yd/m (white)
• Sashing cornerstones: 1 fat quarter (coral/peach)
• Pieced border:
• ¼ yd/m for diamonds (green)
• ½ yd/m for background (white)
• Scalloped border: 2¼ yd/m (white)
• Binding: 1 yd/m (green)
• Backing: 4 yd/m (green, same as binding)

Cutting

• Sashing Strips: 8 strips 1½” (3.8cm) x WOF cut into 31 strips 1½” x 9” (3.8 x 22.8cm) (white).
• Sashing Squares: 1 strip 1½” (3.8cm) x WOF cut into 20 squares 1½ x 1½” (3.8 x 3.8cm) (coral/peach).
• Pieced border: .
• 5 strips, 1¼” (3.2cm) x WOF for the colored diamonds (green).
• 10 strips, 1¼” (3.2cm) x WOF for the alternate color (white).
• Pieced border corner stones: 4 squares 1½ x 1½” (3.8 x 3.8cm) (green).
• Scalloped border: 4 strips 11” (28cm) wide by length of the side + 24” (61cm) (extra fabric is required for hooping and embroidering the mitered corners, this length will be quite generous). I cut my borders on the length of the fabric instead of crosswise to avoid seams and for stability. Unless you’re embroidering each flower element individually in a small hoop, you’ll need to float the border strips for embroidering. I recommend starching the end you’ll be embroidering.
• Binding: Bias strips 2½” (6.35cm) x length of the perimeter plus 12” (30.5cm) (green)

Supplies.

• Designs: U.S. Birth Month Flowers of the Year appliqué designs

All the Birth Month Flowers of the Year blocks are interchangeable for size. Some flowers are designated for both the U.S. and Australia (March, April, June, November, December). Also, some of the flowers designated for Australia are alternates for the U.S. When I originally designed this quilt, it was for the U.S. and I chose flowers that would work well as appliqués and not look too much the same, such as Aster and Daisy.

• Threads and appliqué fabrics as desired
• Fusible web for appliqué
• Wash-Away stabilizer (I used wash-away tear-away)
• Basic quilting and embroidery supplies
• Liquid starch
• Optional: Temporary embroidery spray adhesive

Nice to Have

• Lightbox for precise placement
• PAL laser light

Fabric Preparation

All fabrics were washed and dried before cutting or stitching to preshrink.

Tips For Stitching Blocks

To conserve fabric—I would have needed to cut a 16” (40.6cm) square for each block for normal between-the-rings hooping—I cut my blocks to 10” (25.4cm) and heavily starched each block by dipping the cut blocks into full strength liquid starch and then smoothing each block out squarely and wrinkle-free on my cutting table to dry.

When “floating” projects rather than hooping, the fabric and stabilizer must be made as stable as possible. For stabilizer, I chose a wash-away product, which can either be something like Wash-Away or Sulky FabriSolvy (two layers) or a wash-away tear-away (one layer). Large straight sides on hoops allow for more slippage to occur. If your hoop does not securely hold the stabilizer when hooped by itself, an extra measure of security can be added with duct tape.

Simply tear some lengths of duct tape in half lengthwise and press onto the stabilizer on the back near the hoop edge then wrap up over the bottom and side of the hoop. As long as your hoop is clean, no sticky residue will remain.

For the fabric, starching stiffly is one measure I take, the second is basting. To get an accurate placement, I do a double-basting box process. The first baste is stitched directly onto the stabilizer as a placement guide. The second attaches the block to the stabilizer. I didn’t use any spray adhesives.

If your machine has a baste-in-the-hoop feature, now’s a great time to use it. If it doesn’t, then basting boxes can be added in a program like Embrilliance Essentials—just make each one a different color or program in a stop at your machine so that you can place the fabric after the first one sews.

I prefer adding basting boxes in software because I often make the box a different size when using it as a placement reference. When basting at the machine, it optimizes the baste to the bounding box perimeter of the design.

If you don’t have a large enough hoop to stitch the full-size block design, you’ll need to use one of the split versions to create the block. You’ll definitely need to rehoop for the border vines. When doing multiple hoopings, I try to use a piece of stabilizer that will accommodate all of the hoopings rather than to use multiple pieces of stabilizer. Pressing after each hooping to smooth out any creases is a good idea.

Design Preparation

There’s really no preparation for the blocks themselves. The borders will require some work to arrange the pieces properly.

There are 5 flower elements that comprise the border, which are included with these instructions. When looking at the upper right corner, designs on the short side are mirrored plus the first one on the short side is slightly rotated (#5). In the key following, you can see how these designs are numbered for the upper right corner. The lower left corner is a mirror image of the upper right.

When designing these border designs, I played with numerous individual elements pulled from the flowers and included with the monthly flower designs. After getting an arrangement I liked, I did some minor editing, which mostly consisted of lengthening the stems a bit and some other minor tweaks. This is much easier to do by the digitizer because the design elements can be manipulated as objects rather than stitches.

If you’d like to design your own border, use the “single” versions of the designs and add your own z-stitches as we did in the Echidna PIE Lesson 5, Creating an Endless Border, November 2014 or watch the YouTube video: Creating A Continuous Border with Embrilliance.

To stitch my borders, I combined as many as would fit in my hoop, matching the z-stitches and making sure the designs were ordered from the outer most point and progressing to the corner. It’s a good idea not to entirely max out your sewing field or you won’t be able to fine-tune the placement at the machine. For my machine, this meant I could sew the shorter side in one hooping, the longer side in two hoopings and finally the corner connecting element after the mitered seam was sewn.

Once you’ve combined your elements, you can delete extra z-stitches leaving only the first and last pair as needed.

I definitely recommend printing placement templates for the borders. I planned my placement so that the first flowers (outer most ones) are about 1¼” (3.2cm) from the pieced border. You’ll need to trial where to place everything so that the corner flower matches up with the two side borders and there is enough left over at each end to make the mitered corners.

Another tip is that rather than trying to remember to mirror the various placements, that you create mirrored versions and label them for the appropriate corner. After I created the elements for one corner, I duplicated, mirrored, and renamed them accordingly.

Assembly Instructions

Scant ¼” (6mm) seams used throughout for construction.

1. Embroider the blocks.

Embroider all the blocks and trim to size (9”/22.8cm square) making sure the design is centered.

2. Embroider the borders.

Preparing the designs as previously described will make stitching the borders easier. You’ll want to take extra care to make sure the designs are stitched in the correct direction and orientation because you’re working with a significant length of fabric and a mistake could cost you another trip to the fabric store for a couple more yards.

Perfect Placement Pointers was the subject of lesson 2 in the 2014 Echidna PIE series. I’ll recap a few things here but if you’re new to rehooping to build a larger continuous design, you might want to check that for more comprehensive instructions.

• Mark each border strip with a long center line for aligning each element and for checking straightness in the hoop. Please note that if you’re placing each design individually, this may not match actual guides on your template. I’ve used basting boxes sized to the border area to keep the centers aligned. A small hoop may not permit this.

When floating, I sometimes even mark an additional guide on my hooped stabilizer so that I can match my fabric accurately. If your hoop doesn’t have accurate guides, try this: Hoop your stabilizer and insert the hoop in the machine. Move the hoop using the controls so that the needle is at the top of the hoop (you may not be able to move the needle much if a large design is loaded for stitching) and sink the needle to make a mark in the stabilizer. Now move to the bottom of the hoop and repeat. Use these needle marks to draw a long placement line with a ruler and a fine line pencil.

• For proper visual layering, you’ll be working from the end-most flower to the corner. You’ll need to make sure you have adequate space at the end to create the mitered corner. I pressed over a diagonal at the end. You might want to fold a bit further away than the absolute end to give yourself a little leeway for placement and to allow for a bit of stitching distortion.

• Stitch the border designs, aligning the various elements carefully.

• When both sides of the corner are embroidered, recheck your placement of the connecting flower and, if necessary, make any adjustments for the mitered corner seam.
• Stitch the mitered corner seam to within ¼” (6mm) of the inside corner. Trim seam allowances to ¼” (6mm) and press open.
• Embroider the final design, matching the z-stitches. When the corner is completed, remove the z-stitches.

3. Piece the blocks and sashing.

• Alternating the cornerstones with the sashing strips, assemble and stitch five horizontal sashing rows.

• Join appliqué blocks into four rows of three blocks alternating each block with the remaining sashing strips.

4. Make the pieced diamond border.

Before you piece multiple strips, try a test with some 8” long (20.3cm) pieces. Stitch them for the first strip set and cut as described below and then piece together. Measure the vertical height of an interior diamond to make sure it measures 1” (2.5cm). If not, adjust your seam allowances to achieve this size.

• Using the 1¼” (3cm) strips, sew one white to each side of one green for a strip set. Press seam allowances toward the green. Cut strips into 1¼” (3cm) pieces.

• Rotate each cut piece 45° and stitch together as shown below, taking care to match seams and keeping seam allowances even. Press seams to one side.

• Measure the horizontal center of the quilt to get the length for the top and bottom pieced border. Measure the vertical center of the quilt to get the measurement for the two side borders.
• Piece a long enough strip for each side of the center of the quilt plus two more sections, which will be trimmed off when squaring off the ends. The number you need may vary from mine because if your seam allowances are off even one needle width from mine, this can translate into a significant difference over the length of the border due to the many seams. Do make sure that you match the number of diamonds on opposite sides. You may find that you can’t get an exact length match and that some easing is required.
• Trim off excess leaving ¼” (6mm) seam allowance above the points on the green diamonds.

• Add a cornerstone to each end of the top and bottom pieced border

• Attach pieced side borders to quilt. Then add top and bottom borders.

5. Attach the mitered corner outer borders to the quilt.

If you’ve followed along with the project instructions, you should have two opposing appliquéd corner border pieces, each with a mitered seam. You’ll now need to measure to determine the length for the extensions.

• Measure the horizontal center of the quilt to get the inside measurement for the top and bottom borders. You’ll need to subtract ¼” (6mm) to account for the seam allowance in the border corner that has been stitched. Mark this length on the corresponding border within the seam allowance.
• Measure the vertical center of the quilt to get the inside measurement for the two side borders. Repeat the process of marking the border.
• Mark a diagonal line ¼” (6mm) in from the marks for a seamline.

• Stitch mitered corners, leaving ¼” (6mm) open on the inside border side.
• Stitch the border to the quilt top.

6. Mark scalloped border for quilting but don’t cut!

Actual size templates in PDF format are included if you choose to use them. The template has been tiled onto multiple pages. Just print them, tape together, and trace onto your quilt top for a guide for quilting.

If your quilt is a different size from mine and you need help marking a scallop, watch this video: How to Make a Scalloped Edge on a Quilt.

Don’t cut the scalloped edge at this point; it’s easier to quilt with straight edges.

7. Quilt as desired.

I confess to being a chicken when it comes to the actual quilting and when I want a professional look, I send it to a professional. Fortunately we have quite a few good long arm quilters locally. To keep the two versions of the quilt as different as possible, I sent each one to a different quilter. I splurged on this one and sent it Nubin Jensen, who is well known for her intricate scrolls and feathers. The quilting she did on this project is simply stunning and if you get a chance to see this quilt at an event, be sure to check it out!

8. Create a label.</span<

My favorite font for creating quilt labels is Adine Script, which is available as a BX font for convenient use. You are creating an heirloom so let those who come in the future know who created it and when!

9. Add a hanging sleeve if desired.

10. Bind.

Applying binding to a scalloped border requires a little more effort than the standard rectangular border. If you’ve never done a scalloped border, here’s a good video: How to Make a Scalloped Edge on a Quilt.

I prefer to stitch my binding to the front of my quilt, fold to the back and then hand stitch.

I find this relaxing but feel free to use your own favorite technique. You will definitely need to cut your binding on the bias to accommodate the curved edges.

Summary

Quilts don’t have to be massive. Smaller wall-hanging sizes like this one are more easily completed before the boredom or overwhelm sets in. Obviously this is not a one day or even a weekend project. Set aside planning time to choose fabrics that you love and will work well together. Don’t rush, enjoy the process!

The pieced border will take quite some time as does the appliquéd scalloped border and while these add a special touch to this quilt, don’t feel like you have to do them because I did. Feel free to design your own variation.

It’s a Wrap!

One thing I love about this hobby is that there’s always something new to learn, some new technique, some new gadget. Discovering those things is what keeps the hobby new, fresh, and interesting. Plus, embroidery is just more fun when you know the tricks to getting good results!

Piecing in the hoop replicates the process of foundation piecing, also known as paper piecing. If you’ve done foundation piecing with the sewing machine, you will immediately grasp the concept. While a little more intensive than regular embroidery, this technique really only requires attention to detail.

Use the patterns to pre-cut all your pieces. You can spray templates with TESA, swipe with a glue stick, or print on fusible paper and apply to the front of your fabric pieces for cutting. Be sure to keep the pattern piece attached until ready to place the fabric in the hoop to avoid using the wrong piece.

Skill Level

Basic embroidery and rotary cutting skills

All squares finish the same even though their dimensions may vary slightly due to some stitching lines extending beyond the finished seam line. Similarly, all small triangles finish to the same size and large triangles are the same size.

What You’ll Need

• Suitable fabrics for blocks, pre-washed and pressed (Tip: If fabrics are especially soft, starching can reduce distortion when stitching.)
• Printed block patterns and templates
• Rotary cutter, quilting ruler, and mat
• TESA (Temporary embroidery spray adhesive) or water-soluble fabric glue stick
• Stabilizer—I used Sulky Soft n Sheer. You’ll be using heat to press the pieces in place and water-soluble fiber stabilizers can shrink with heat.
• Appliqué tacking iron
• Double curve appliqué scissors
• An embroidery machine with a minimum sewing field of 5.75” x 5.75” for the blocks

What’s Included with the Collection

• Twenty-two designs digitized for piecing in the hoop
• Full size patterns and templates for each block
• Color sequence PDF with images of sample block
• This instructional PDF
• Quilt-As-You-Go Basics ebook
• PDF for making a journal cover
• Basic notes for

Watch How-Tos on YouTube

If you’ve never done piece-in-the hoop or paper piecing before, the process can seem overly complicated.

You can watch me stitch the heart from this set in the following YouTube video:

• How to Stitch Victorian Crazy Piecing In-the-Hoop
Also, please check the website for new projects using these designs as well as specials and informative blog posts. At the time of this writing, there are two blog posts on this set:
• How To Embroider Victorian Crazy Patch In-The-Hoop
• How To Make An Embroidered Journal Cover

Preliminary Notes

If you’ve done foundation or paper piecing, you’ll notice there are a few variations:

1. In paper piecing, fabric is applied to the back side of the printed pattern and the sewing is done on the printed side. When embroidering pieced blocks, all sewing is done from the fabric side.
2. In paper piecing, excess fabric is trimmed off as you go by folding back the pattern and rotary cutting. When embroidering pieced blocks, excess fabric is trimmed off as you go with double-curved appliqué scissors.

Understanding the Patterns

Each design in this set except the border has a PDF pattern sheet.

For the border, cut 22 pieces 8” x 1”; the pieces are applied from the top down.

All pattern pieces are numbered with an arrow pointing to the side that will be initially attached.

This number indicates what order the pieces will be applied.

The first piece has a reminder to place it face up; all other pieces will be placed face down (right sides together)

Exact cutting is not required but I recommend not getting too sloppy about it. The outer edges have a ½” seam allowance while all the inner seam lines are ¼”. This extra bit gives you some “fudge factor” around the outside.

There are no digital cutter files included with this set, only the PDF for hand cutting. Because of the variety of fabrics you’ll be using and the simple straight line shapes and the fact that these aren’t appliques that require precise cutting, I found it easier just to cut these pieces with a rotary cutter or scissors.

Understanding the Color Sequences

All the designs except the border sew in generally the same order:

1. A placement line is sewn that indicates the seam line for the finished blocks. This line will only be seen from the back of the project.
2. Color 2 sews a numbered guideline for the placement of all the pieces. The seam lines will be sewn directly over these lines.
3. Color 3 is an “edge guide” to help you with placing the fabrics. This line is set at a 1/4” offset from the seam lines. This is a handy reference particularly if you aren’t very precise with cutting or placing your pieces as it can tell you right away if you’re fabric isn’t going to get caught in the next seam.
4. Color 4 will tack down the first piece of fabric in the design. This piece is always placed face up.
5. Before color 5, place piece 2 face down along the indicated line. (Refer to the included pattern guide.) Color 5 sews the seam line.
6. Before color 6, flip the fabric over and finger press the fabric smooth and flat. You can hold the fabric in place with a bit of glue stick. Color 7 will sew a tack down that will get covered by subsequent pieces or be enclosed within the seam allowance.

Repeat steps 5 and 6 until all the pieces are placed. Although I’ve set different colors in the design, I typically sew all of this first part in 1 color. The extra colors are to force the machine to stop.

It’s totally possible to stop the design at this point; all the piecing is done and your block can be used as is (exception is the heart, which requires the next to last color to stitch the appliqué).

The remainder of the design is all the decorative stitching. I’ve used a variety of colors here for flexibility. Color stops not only make it easy for you to match threads to your fabrics, they also make it easy to skip or delete areas.

Refer to the included color sequence guide for additional color information.

All seams are double pass so there is no need to use construction thread for the piecing steps. You may want to use polyester embroidery thread instead of rayon for strength.

Preparation

1. Print the pattern pieces.

Open the corresponding design PDF in Acrobat and print the full size pattern and corresponding pattern templates. Make sure Acrobat does not scale the pattern. For your convenience, a 1” square is printed on the first page of each block’s templates for easy verification.

You might want to print 2 copies: 1 for cutting and 1 for placement reference while stitching.

2. Cut your fabrics.

Loosely cut out the patterns, swipe the back with a glue stick and press it to the front of your fabric. Cut out neatly.

While absolute precision is not required, avoid getting too careless with your cutting and making the pieces too large or too small.

3. Hoop the stabilizer.

Piecing in the hoop is a floated technique. Because of all the extra embellishments, a tearaway may break down during stitching in some areas. And, since the designs are relatively open and delicate, tearaways can be difficult to remove.

On similar projects I’ve used heat fusible to hold the pieces after stitching but I didn’t for these designs.

Hooping a thin stabilizer may not be secure in your hoop. If it isn’t use some method to make sure it won’t slip. I prefer duct tape for this.

4. Stitch the placement lines.

The first 3 colors are placement guides.

Color one outlines the seam line. Use this as a reference for cutting your finished pieces. Note that after stitching it may no longer be straight due to push and pull.

Color 2 defines the stitching lines along with sequence numbers and color 3 indicates a ¼” seam allowance.

Sew these in color that won’t bleed through your fabrics but can still be seen. The numbers are within seam allowances and will be covered by several layers of fabric. Indeed, they are likely to be covered by the time you have to place the corresponding piece to having a copy of the pattern by your side as you stitch is a handy reference.

Note that none of these colors are required and can be skipped, which is why they are all separate colors.

5. Place piece 1.

On all designs in this set, piece one is placed face up. On the border design only, piece 2 is also placed at this time, face down (noted on color sequence guide)

The next color will do a zigzag tack down to secure this piece in place

6. Place piece 2.

All subsequent pieces will be aligned, placed face down, and stitched along the seam.

After stitching, the piece will be flipped over, pressed into place and then secured by a tack-down stitch via the next color.

7. Continue with the remainder of the pieces.

All remaining pieces are applied in the exact same manner: check alignment, place face down, stitch, flip, press, and tack down.

8. Sew the decorative stitches.

Once again you’ll have many color changes. Choose colors that work well with your fabrics.

Extra color changes mean more flexibility. It’s easy to skip one at the machine delete them in software.

9. Trim to size.

When the design is complete, remove from hoop, place face down on a cutting mat and trim to size using the seam reference (color 1) as a guide.

Exceptions

The first and last design have a few differences.

The first design is a heart and is finished as an appliqué. The last two colors of the design are the finishing edge around the heart. Before those colors sew, remove the hoop from the machine and trim off any fabric beyond the tack down.

The last design in the set creates the striped border. All the pieces are identical and numbered placement guide is omitted. The guides for this design are the raw edge of the seam allowance.

Because this design is simpler, pieces one and two are placed together with piece on the bottom face up and piece two on the top face down. Only the seams are stitched and are double pass as in the other blocks.

Project Notes

Full instructions are included for the journal covers.

For the quilt, I stitched all 5 of the squares, the 4 large triangles and 4 small triangles. I stitched each one through the batting.

For the borders, I stitched two hoops of the border, stitched them together on the sewing machine to form one long strip and then rotary cut them in four 1¾” strips.

The blocks were pieced together using a quilt-as-you-go method with 1” strips of sashing (½” finished) using the twin sashing strip method after adding a backing fabric to each block. See the included Quilt-As-You-Go Basics ebook for more details.

(Some items included with the set art not available with individual design purchases.)

Summary

Piecing in the hoop produces a highly consistent and accurate result provided you follow the steps precisely!