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Blog posts tagged with 'embroidery machine'

ITH Mini Stockings
ITH Mini Stockings

ITH-Mini-Stockings

Elegant or cute and whimsical, the choice is yours! These in-the-hoop mini stockings take only small bits of fabric and are quick to make. They’re perfect for your holiday table or for mini treat bags.

 

This set includes 9 stockings that can be completed in the hoop with just one hooping. Each stocking is fully lined with no exposed seams. The cuff is free at the bottom, the way a cuff on a sock would be.

 

Four additional designs are included for adding text to the cuff. These must be stitched separately and before the main stocking. Matt down stitching is included for stitching on textured fabric. Skip this color change if not needed.

 

The stockings can be completed in a 130 x 180mm ( “5x7”) sewing field hoop. The personalized cuffs will work in a 100 x 100mm (“4x4”) sewing field hoop.

 

Skill Level

While this project is simple, it has a lot of steps and you’ll need to pay close attention to what goes where and when.

 

Some of the stockings include appliqué. If you aren’t familiar with this technique, you might want to watch this video: How to do Machine Embroidered Applique.

 

Please read through all instructions before starting your project! This project, while complex, is not really difficult because the embroidery takes care of all the construction. Cut and place carefully and you’ll have a successful result!

 

 Resizing is not recommended

 

Fabric Choices

I used a mixture of quilt weight cottons and polar fleece. For most of the stockings, I applied a thin cotton batting behind the front. Stockings that didn’t include batting were interfaced.

 

The cutting list included in the design worksheet calls for folding the cuff wrong sides together before stitching to the front of the stocking. If you use polar fleece, this will add a lot of bulk and it will be harder to get the stocking front smooth and flat.

 

Since this type of fleece doesn’t ravel, you can use just a single layer. With this method, you could cut the free (bottom) edge of the cuff with a decorative edge, as shown below

 

 

The key when choosing and preparing your fabrics is to keep in mind that the stitched project needs to be turned inside out twice so be aware of how thick and how stiff your fabrics are. For example, on the Santa because I used polar fleece for the beard so I omitted the batting and just interfaced the fabric.

 

Threads

I used mostly polyester embroidery thread. The holly design would look gorgeous in metallic. I did use gold metallic on Santa’s glasses.

 

About the Appliques

Applique patterns are included for the stocking shape as well as other elements for some of the designs. I did not precut the stocking shape. For the other pieces, I precut if I was using quilt cottons and applied fusible web to the back

 

Fusible web cannot be used on polar fleece so for Santa’s beard, I chose to use the trim-inplace method

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About the Designs

Each design has a worksheet with a color sequence, actual size appliqué patterns, plus sewing and cutting instructions. Once you’re familiar with these more complete instructions, you should be able to follow the worksheet notes.

 

The stocking steps are the same for each design. The decorative parts all start with color 4. Assembling and finishing the stocking are the last 3 colors. I recommend you try making the Plain Stocking first so that you understand the in-the-hoop steps.

 

There are 9 stocking designs and 4 cuff designs. If you want an embroidered cuff, you need to sew that separately and before the stocking. The cuff design assumes you will be folding the fabric. Use this design as a placement guide if you wish to personalize cuffs with names

 

 

What You’ll Need

  • Suitable fabrics, pre-washed and pressed. I used quilt-weight cottons and polar fleece. Tip: If fabrics are especially soft, starching can reduce distortion when stitching if you aren’t applying interfacing.
  • Rotary cutter, quilting ruler and mat
  • Stabilizer: I used Sulky Soft ‘n Sheer for knits (polar fleece) and wash-away tearaway for wovens.
  • Batting: I used Warm and Natural (batting is optional)
  • Fusible interfacing: I used Pellon ShirTailor
  • Steam-a-Seam 2 for appliqué
  • Steam-a-Seam 2: 1/4’ wide hem tape
  • Scissors used:
  • For trimming batting
  • Thread snips
  • Heavy scissors for final trim
  • Suitable embroidery threads
  • Optional: ribbons or decorative cord for hanging loops
  • Tape (Scotch invisible, painter’s tape, or similar)

 

Getting Started

You’ll need to some prep work before starting the embroidery:

 

  • Cut, press, and prepare all your fabrics
  • If you’re making self fabric loops, make these ahead. (Instructions not included.)
  • Stitch any personalized cuffs before stitching the main stocking design.

 

Stocking Cutting Requirements

  • Stocking front: cut 2 4.75” x 5.75” of fabric & 1 of batting*.
  • Plain Cuff: Cut one 3.75” wide by 3” tall folded wrong side together to 3.75” x 1.5”.
  • Embroidered Cuff: Cut one 4” x 4”
  • Back: Cut one: 4.75” x 11.5, folded wrong side together to 4.75” x 5.75” TIP: Applying a strip of fusible web at the fold line (on the inside) will reinforce the folded edge.
  • Optional Loop: Cut twice as long as desired length + 1”

 

* Batting is optional and can make the project more difficult to turn and appear more puckered on the front

 

QUICK CUTTING TIP: If you’re using the same fabric for the front, back, and front lining, cut 2 pieces of fabric 5” x 12” wide. If your fabric is folded, this is just one cut. Cut the front fabric into 2 pieces

 

Optional: Embroidering the Cuff

The cuff design includes matt down stitches in case you are stitching on a textured fabric.

These should be sewn in the same color as your fabric. If you don’t need them, skip color 3

1. Hoop appropriate stabilizer and sew color 1 for placement

 

2. Place fabric. Sew color 2

 

3. Color 3 is a matt down stitch to flatten any texture. If you don’t need it, skip it.

 

4. Color 4 is the lettering

 

 

Remove from hoop. Mark center top. Cut out along tack down line. Remove stabilizer.

 

Fold in half horizontally, wrong side together. The lettering is positioned to align along the folded edge.

 

Embroidering the Stocking

1. Hoop appropriate stabilizer and sew color 1 for placement. This placement line allows for 1/4” seam. All fabrics should cover this line

 

 

2. Place batting (if using) and sew color 2. If not using batting, skip this color change.

 

 

3. Trim back batting to tack down stitching to minimize bulk in the seam allowances

4. Place top fabric right side up. Sew color 3.

This color will secure the stocking front to the stabilizer and stitch some additional placement guides:

 

    • Top center is the center cuff guide
    • Top horizontal guides are for placing the back fabric (top fold will match here).
    • Bottom horizontal guides are for aligning the bottom fold of the cuff

Using a pen or pencil and rulle, extend these lines onto the stabilizer so they are visible later

 

Any decorative elements are sewn here. Refer to your individual design color sequences if not sewing the Plain Stocking

 

 

5. Place the cuff, aligning folded edge (or bottom edge, if you’re using one layer of fabric) with horizontal bottom placement guides and top center with top center guide. The cuff should be placed right side up

 

 

If you’re adding a loop hanger, position that at this time also. Place the loop with the raw edges toward the raw edges of the stocking fabrics and right side down. Extend it about 1/2” beyond the seam line.

 

Secure with tape in a such a way that the presser foot won’t “trip” or catch on any raised areas.

 

Sew color 4

.6. Place the folded back piece over the design aligning folded edge to the top horizontal placement guide. Sew color 5 to attach lining

7. Place front lining right side down over the design. Sew color 6

 

 

Finishing

Trim seam allowances leaving an extension at the turn opening. If you’ve included a hanger, leave it about 3/8” - 1/2” long to avoid raveling. (See photo later.)

Press back the seam allowances. Fuse a small strip of hem tape leaving the protective paper in place

 

 

Turn right side out through opening push out all corners and curves. Peel of tape on fusible web and fuse close.

 

Turn right side out and press.

 

Note: Polar fleece is damaged by heat so pay attention to what your fabrics can tolerate.

 

Variations

For the Holly and Snowman stockings, sew the decorative parts of the design after color 4 following the color sequence information included with the designs

 

For the designs with appliqués, pre-cutting the appliqués and using a fusible web is recommended for smooth, normal weight fabrics.

 

 

This method doesn’t always work well with polar fleece so you may wish to use the trim in place method. If you choose this option, you must trim right up to the stitching line! Only the snowflake stocking and Santa designs have been set up for trim in place.

 

 

For the Santa, the base stocking front fabric should be whatever color you want for Santa’s face.

 

On the stocking, I’ve set the toe and heel areas as separate placements to make it easier to use 2 different fabrics. The sample shows them in the same color

 

Getting Creative

You can add your own designs to the plain stocking or replace the text on the cuff. The small size of the stocking limits the amount of text you can include but many names could fit here.

 

On the Snowflake stocking, you can omit either or both of the additional appliqués (heel and toe) or keep the appliqués and omit the snowflake.

 

Experiment with different fabrics and threads.

 

Summary

As you can see by these samples, you can make your stockings in any color combination. Also, if you are experienced with software, you can add a monogram, name, other embellishment, or a design from your stash to the plain bag or the cuff. Any cuff personalizations need to be brief and kept to about 2.5” wide.

Bobbin Work

Bobbin work allows you to embroider designs with beautiful textured threads and ribbon— threads that cannot be sewn through the needle. For best results, you not only need a specially digitized design but you need to modify your technique and make some machine adjustments.

 

Please note: Bobbin work requires some testing and adjusting of your machine tensions. Please refer to your machine manual or consult your sewing machine dealer for specific help with your machine.

 

Supplies

 

  • Design specifically digitized for bobbin work
  • Heavier threads such as Pearl Crown Rayon, 2mm silk ribbon, Madeira Decora 6, other decorative threads and fibers generally used for bobbin work. (Note: Heavier yarns are not recommended due to the short amount you will be able to wind on the bobbin.)
  • Monofilament invisible (polyester or nylon) upper thread
  • 70/10 or 75/11 embroidery needle
  • Specialty or second bobbin case
  • Screw driver for adjusting bobbin case tension
  • Fabric, stabilizer

 

Preparation: Filling the Bobbin

 

Bobbins can be wound by hand or by machine. If winding by machine, wind slowly. Since you probably will not be able to run the thread through the normal thread guides, use your fingers to control the winding tension. Be careful not to wind too tightly or too loosely.

 

Be sure to check the amount of thread on the bobbin each time you start a new design. If the bobbin runs out during stitching:

 

  • Remove the hoop
  • Thread the “tail” to the back (top side of hoop_ using the tapestry or chenille needle
  • Wind and insert a new bobbin
  • Replace the hoop
  • Reposition the needle to where the “tail” comes to the back
  • Bring the bobbin thread to the wrong side by hand as when beginning a design
  • Continue stitching the design

 

Avoid using heavier yarns as you will not be able to wind enough on the bobbin to complete a single design. I tried winding a textured knitting yarn and only got about 30” on the bobbin before it was full.

 

Preparation: Machine Tensions

 

Most home embroidery machines have automatic tensioning that cause the top (needle) thread to be pulled to the bottom side of the hooped fabric. This is perfect for traditional embroidery because under proper tensions, the bobbin thread will never be seen on the design side.

 

However, with bobbin work, the design will be sewn on the bobbin side using thread many times heavier than embroidery bobbin thread. Also, monofilament thread is quite thin and slips through the tensions easily. These three issues will require tension adjustments to accommodate the thread weights and to prevent the monofilament from pulling through to the design side.

 

Proper bobbin and needle thread tensions will take some trials. Use a small design and be sure to test with the same weight and type of thread you will be using in your project.

 

Using a separate bobbin case for bobbin work will make switching between specialty stitching and standard easier and more enjoyable. Be sure to label your bobbin cases if they do not look different. Be sure to read the manual for your machine; some threads may be so heavy that bypassing certain tensioners is the best route. I found that with Pearl Crown Rayon I had to loosen the tension screw on the bobbin case quite a bit (be careful not to unscrew it all the way!) and raise the needle thread tension for a good result.

 

How much should you loosen the tension? I suggest inserting embroidery bobbin thread in your regular case and feeling the tension of the thread as you pull it through the bobbin. This should give an idea for what the tension should feel like after adjusting for a heavier thread. If you have a front loading bobbin case, you might try the “bobbin drop test.” Hold the threaded bobbin in one hand by the thread tail with the other hand cupped a few inches below. Give a little jerk on the tail and see if the bobbin drops a bit. If the bobbin doesn’t drop, loosen some more; if it drops a lot, tighten a bit.

 

Allow plenty of time for testing since you can’t see the results until you remove the hoop from the machine because they are on the bottom. Chances are that you won’t be pulling these heavy threads to the back of the embroidery but you don’t want the needle thread pulled to the design side.

 

While you’re at your machine, turn off the automatic thread cutter if your machine has one and slow your machine down.

 

Preparation: Fabric

 

The only trick here is remembering that the right side of the fabric faces the bed of the machine and the stabilizer goes on top. In general, bobbin work designs are open and lower stitch count, which means a lower distortion type of design. Choose an appropriate stabilizer for the fabric. I prefer to use a light-weight, no-show cutaway when the stabilizer can stay in. Tearaways can be difficult to remove since these designs do not have a lot of needle penetrations to perforate this type of stabilizer. You may want to choose a water soluble product.

 

Embroidering the Design

 

Advance your machine to the first stitch in the design. Manually turn the hand wheel of the machine to pull the bobbin thread to the top. Many machines will sink the needle in the center of the design and then travel to the first stitch. If you pull the thread up here and the design doesn’t start in the center, you will probably end up embroidering over a long thread tail later in the design.

 

Hold both thread tails for the first couple of stitches; do not trim.

 

You may get better stitch formation if you slow your machine down.

 

When the design is finished, leave a bobbin thread tail several inches long. Pull the bobbin thread to the back or use a tapestry needle to inserted near the stitch to bring the tail to the wrong side. Tie off the starting and ending thread tail with a knot close to the fabric to secure if desired and trim threads to about one inch long.

 

Other Notes:

You will need to change the bobbin whenever you want to switch to a new color. Stop the machine, remove the hoop and follow the steps for running out of thread.

 

Free Design Warnings

3 free designs per week with no purchase,

6 free designs per week with $35 purchase, or

9 free designs per week with $75 purchase.

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