It's very common for the new machine embroiderer to blame disappointing results of their first projects on poorly digitized designs. Before you blame the digitizing, consider first the fabric you've stitched on and the stabilizers used. One type of stabilizer does not fit all fabrics!
Why do we need stablizers for machine embroidery?
Stabilizers are as important to your embroidery as the needle, thread and design. Without proper stabilization, the foundation of the fabric becomes weakened under the pressure of the pounding needle and thread that tear through the substrate like a tenderizer hammer through thin slices of beef. The end results are ragged stitches, gaps between elements and buckling, puckered fabric.
Proper stabilization prevents poor registration of elements, most often seen when a gap is left between the outlines and inside stitches. The stitches pull on the fabric inward where the machine turns to stitch in the opposite direction. The outline will always stitch where it has been digitized to stitch. If the fabric has pulled too far inward, a gap is left between. The new embroiderer's assumption is that there's something wrong with the design when this occurs, and actually, most often it's caused by a weak foundation. Something must strengthen the substrate to prevent that pull, and the proper stabilizer or combination of different types of stabilizers is the solution
What exactly is a machine embroidery stablizer?
At one time, there were only two types of stabilizer; cutaway and tearaway. Cutaway is thicker and heavier than a tearaway, but both were rough to the skin, which led to the demand for softer backings that didn't break down. Today, cutaway and tearaway remain the two base types of stabilizers, with variations available, including fusible. Water soluble stabilizer is used for a topping to help hold stitches above the fabric fibers, and for use as a backing on projects where the embroidery is seen on both sides, as well as for creating freestanding lace (FSL).
- Cutaway comes in different weights of light, medium and heavy. It's most often used on vulnerable fabrics under stitch-intensive designs. After the embroidery, the excess stabilizer must be trimmed away up to the stitches. There are several different types of cutaway to accommodate different types of fabrics, from stiff and heavy to a no-show cutaway that is flexible and soft, yet strong.
- Tearaway is available in several weights as well. This stabilizer is simply torn away after the embroidery, reducing the finishing time and leaving the embroidery as flexible as the design allows. It's often used when one sheet of cutaway isn't working but another sheet of cutaway would make it too stiff; a sheet of tearaway can be “floated” (unhooped) below the hooped item.
- Fusible stabilizers are found as a cutaway or tearaway and used in projects that require an extra touch of strength, such as when stitching on a stretchy fabric to prevent the stretch during the embroidery process. Some embroiderers try stretching the fabric in the hoop so that it's tight as possible, but soon find that when the garment is unhooped the fabric around the embroidery is puckered and the embroidery hangs with an unsightly drape. Fabric should never be stretched in the hoop, though it should be taut. However, hooping correctly is not enough to eliminate the stretch. When a stretchy fabric is not stabilized properly it can result in a distorted design with squares that become rectangles and circles that become ovals.
- Water soluble stabilizer (WSS), is most often used as a topping, but there are varieties available as a cutaway or tearaway used for a backing. As a topping it strengthens the substrate and keeps the stitches from sinking into the fabric that otherwise results in ragged, inconsistent edges. It is also used for projects that require all stabilizer be removed after the embroidery, as when creating freestanding lace (FSL).
Once you have found the proper Stablizer, Where does it go?
Stabilizers are placed as a backing behind the fabric or a topping above. The decision of which stabilizer to use where often comes by trial and error by determining the needs of the fabric combined with the needs of the design. It's wise to always test-stitch a design on fabric that is similar to the final project. Even if the design has stitched well for you on a poplin, it can have terrible results on a knit or woven if the stabilizer you've used isn't the best choice. Try different stabilizers and combination of stabilizers.
Take note of the results, if possible in writing. Some embroiderers create notebooks with these test results that include the design and the materials used, along with a sewn sample. Even if the samples are not quality, the results seen will tell you what works and what doesn't. You will thank yourself for these notes later if the project comes around again and you have forgotten the results of that first test.
- Cutaway: Most often a cutaway is best for use on vulnerable fabrics, especially when the design contains a high stitch count. It's recommended for stock designs that are digitized in a general manner to accommodate most fabrics and this type of design may lack appropriate underlay stitches or push and pull compensation that a digitizer will apply for a particular fabric when creating a custom design. Cutaway adds strength to prevent distortion while supporting the stitches and retaining intended shapes of elements.
As well, cutaway is the perfect choice for any design embroidered on a stretchy knit or woven fabric. It also works well on a lightweight fabric, but some cutaway can be a little too stiff for projects such as linen napkins. That's when a no-show, poly-mesh cut-away is the best choice, especially if the design is stitch-intensive. The flexible no-show cutaways are also used for garments, such as a knit polo or baby onsie, to offer a softer, lighter embroidered design that is less heavy and more comfortable against the skin. - Tearaway: Stable fabrics, such as heavy denim, canvas, cotton twill, towels and robes, require less stabilization. A strong, dense fabric needs less stabilization, especially for a design with a lower stitch count. Some substrates, such as leather, require no stabilizer for a strong foundation, but nevertheless, leather needs “slide” to get past the needle plate without sticking and jerking that causes thread breaks, birdnesting, needle bends and breaks. Floating one piece of tearaway below the leather or other tough fabrics will help it glide on through.
Tearaway is also a wise addition to those projects that call for a cutaway and one sheet of the cutaway just doesn't do. Instead of adding another cutaway that would result in a heavy stiff embroidery, add a sheet of tearaway either hooped or float below. - Adhesive/Fusible: An adhesive type of stabilizer, available as a peel-and-stick or iron-on fusible, can be your best friend when stitching on stretchy fabrics. It's often applied to the back of the fabric, up against the area of embroidery to stop any possibility of stretch. It is most often used along with a sheet of cutaway or tearaway to create a firm substrate that the needle will push through, but the thread will pull very little at the fabric, if at all.
A double-sided adhesive stabilizer, such as a peel-and-stick is used as a backing for appliqué material to hold it in place, as well as for those hard-to-hoop items like baby booties or items that shouldn't be hooped to prevent hoop burn in velvet or silk. It is applied between the fabric and sheet of hooped stabilizer, which strengthens the embroidery area without the aid of hooping the fabric.
When an adhesive or fusible stabilizer isn't at hand, some embroiderers will use an adhesive spray to adhere a non-adhesive stabilizer to the fabric. Keep in mind, when stitching multiple items, sprays can gradually gum up the needle and cause thread breaks, so it should be used sparingly, or prepare to change the needle more often. As well, the hoop will need to be continuously cleaned to prevent hoop marks/hoop burn. - Water Soluble (WSS) Water soluble stabilizer comes in a variety of types. At one time, there was only one used for a topping. It assures the best possible embroidery, by creating a smooth surface to keep the satin stitch columns wide and the edges crisp. It holds line stitches, such as a run or bean stitch, above board, preventing those lines from disappearing into the knit. And it holds down the fibers of textured fabrics like terrycloth and corduroy, allowing for clean stitch coverage.
The use of water soluble stabilizers has evolved, as embroiderers' craft interests expanded, and it's now available in different varieties for different projects. There are several weights and types, such as the heavier, nylon fibrous types used for FSL ornaments and jewelry. There are water soluble cutaways and tearaways used for backings on projects where the backside of embroidery will be seen, as on a towel or blanket.
In Summary:
While all of this may seem overwhelming, the most importation thing to remember is to simply determine the needs for your embroidery project. Is the fabric stretchy and vulnerable or dense and stable? Is the fabric thin or thick and/or textured? Consider the project: is flexibility and comfort more important, such as for a garment, or is a firm, non-flexible backing the best idea, such as for a bookmark? Will the backside be hidden or visible? Consider the design: is the stitch count high or low? Is it a highly detailed design with complete coverage and outlines, or is it a simple one-color design with light coverage, or is it somewhere in between? The needs of the fabric, the project and design will determine the type of stabilizer or combination of stabilizers to use to achieve quality results.
*Additional Tips
Knits & Stretchy fabrics: examples would be Polo golf shirt, baby onsie, T-shirt, sweatshirt: Recommend using an iron-on cutaway similar to a No Show Poly Mesh Fusible Stabilizer Alternative Option: apply Temporary Adhesive Spray to a cutway backing such as non-fusible poly mesh stabilizer *Add a water soluble topping
Baby items: After stitching has been completed, we recommend the use a soft lightweight iron soft lightweight iron on to cover stitches on the backside of embroidery to protect skin from the roughness of the thread and offer added comfort.
Woven fabrics, like, Blankets and throws: you can use a cut away stabilizer or a tear a way stabilizer option. For Stitch intensive designs, they need to have a stablizer that can hold up to the density of the file. A heavier weight stablizer may be the better option: offered in variant weights, you can select a 2.0 oz cutaway stabilizer for medium density files a 2.5 oz cutaway stabilizer for those high density designs *Add a water soluble topping
When embroidering on textured fabrics like terrycloth, wool, and corduroy, it is recommended that you consider adding a water soluble topping to keep the threads above the pile of the fabric. You should also consider using a medium weight stabilizer to heavy weight stabilizer as previously mentioned but not just due to the stitch intenstity. *Add a water soluble topping
Thin cottons, linens or similar: Tea Towels, shirts, napkins you can use a light weight poly-mesh or even a water soluble cut away.
Sturdy fabrics like nylon and canvas Nylon jacket (quilt lined), aprons, totes can use a Tear Away stabilizer while Nylon jackets with a light cotton lining should still use a Cut Away stabilizer.
Applique projects: there are some variances with these types of projects, often times the vendor will include recommendsations of their own for the specific project. If no insturctions are provided, depending on the density of the project, you should be able to rely on a medium weight stabilizer or heavier weight cutway stabilizer as well as Tear Away stabilizer option.
FSL ornaments/jewelry Requires a heavy duty fibrous water-soluble stabilizer *If results are poor, use two sheets crisscrossed for better stability (do not confuse this product with the water soluble topper)
***When using a Water Soluble TOPPER product you will still lay your project fabric in the hoop as normal.
This topper product can be either layed on top of and hoop along with the fabric inside of the hoop,
or layed on top of the hooped fabric and pinned to secure.
By the "1Z Embroidery" Team
