Recycle a plastic container with screw on lid for button storage that doubles as a pin cushion. This easy project requires only minimal sewing to attach the binding and the buttons; your embroidery machine does the rest!
Using embroidery designs to quilt makes it easy for anyone to create intricate designs quickly and easily. An important difference with embroidery designs is how the machine is tensioned. In normal sewing and quilting, the needle and bobbin threads are evenly balanced. This is not the case with embroidery. Here the top thread is pulled to the back and the back is likely to look rather messy—especially if your machine has automatic trimmers that pull all the thread tails to the back. To minimize this, match your bobbin thread to the top thread and choose a busy fabric for the back that blends well with your thread color. You may also wish to adjust your tensions for a more even balance. The back of this project is not prominent but neatness is always a good thing!
Most quilting motifs are continuous and will only have one pair of tie-offs.
Redwork designs with many distinct elements will have more tie-offs.
The Bluework Sewing designs collection from Lindee G Embroidery includes 10 decorative, redwork style designs with a sewing theme. Each design is available in 2 sizes: one for smaller hoops) and one for 5 x 7” hoops. Due to the amount of detail in these designs, I don’t recommend shrinking the smaller size, which all have shorter stitch lengths.
Additionally, I’ve included the design used in the jar wrap for your convenience. This design is a resized version of an existing design in the collection and it has had two additional basting runs added for placement. I’ve added custom digitized lettering and provided “Buttons” as a stand-alone design for other use.
These instructions are for machines with a 5 x 7” sewing field. If you have a smaller sewing field, adjust accordingly.
Skill Level
Basic sewing skills are required to piece binding strips, apply the binding (standard method used in quilting), and sew on buttons. Instructions are included for mitering corners on binding.
Designs Used
- Bluework Sewing lgs01205 Buttons
- Bluework Sewing lgs01221 Button Jar Bonus design
Fabric Requirements
I used scraps and bits from my stash. While this project doesn’t need much, depending on the circumference of your container, fat quarters may not be wide enough. I used two colors: solid white and a blue print.
Supplies
- Batting—Choose one that is not too lofty; I used a fusible one for quilts.
- Wash-Away stabilizer
- No-Show Mesh stabilizer
- Small amount of thin or round elastic for button loops
- 3 buttons
- TESA (KK2000 or similar temporary embroidery spray adhesive)
- Construction thread
- Embroidery thread
- Matching bobbin thread for embroidery, if desired
- Rotary cutter, ruler, and mat
- Plastic container with screw on lid (pick one with straight sides). This one is an Isagenix container.
- Tape measure
- Rotary cutter, ruler, mat
- Hot glue gun
- Heavy cardboard (I used a scrap of matte board)
- Basic sewing supplies
- 5 x 7” hoop
- 4 x 4” hoop
Preparation
1. I used matching thread in the bobbin. The back won’t show on the lid and the back will only show on the wrap if you remove it. This is your call. You won’t even need to wind a full bobbin if you choose to match your thread.
2. Measure your container to determine the fabric requirements for the wrap. My wrap just meets at the back and is slightly taller than the straight part of the container. (15-1/2” by 4-1/4”).
For the wrap, you’ll need:
- 1 front
- 1 back
- 1 batting
Layer these into a “quilt sandwich” with your back fabric face down, your top fabric face up, and the batting as the filling in between. If you are using a fusible batting, fuse according to package instructions.
3. Measure the circumference and height of the lid rim. This one is 1” tall. I cut a 3” wide strip on the bias. You’ll be folding this in half. The folded edge will be at the bottom of the lid rim and the top raw edges will be hot glued to the lid. Make sure you have enough excess fabric to wrap over the edge of the lid.
The checked fabric I used was printed, not woven. By cutting it on the bias, I avoided any off grain stripes, matched the bias binding on the wrap, and had stretchy piece with a little give to it for a snug fit. Sew the ends together with 1/4” seams, press open and fold the strip in half.
4. Cut a circle from heavy cardboard to loosely fit inside the center of the lid.
5. Cut a generous square of fabric for the pincushion cover. You can trim this down later after you decide how full you want the puffing on the lid. Cut a piece of batting to be hooped with the fabric for embroidery.
6. The binding strips for the wrap are 2” wide bias cut strips pieced to the required length and folded and pressed lengthwise.
Embroidering
For the pincushion top, you’ll be using the 4” x 4” hoop. Sandwich your batting between the top fabric and a piece of no-show mesh stabilizer and hoop together.
1. Load design lgs01205 and embroider.
For the wrap, you’ll be using the 5 x 7” hoop. The Baby Lock Ellisimo I’m using doesn’t come with this size hoop and I recommend getting one if one is available for your machine and you don’t have one. Many designs are sized for this hoop and best embroidery practices dictate using a hoop that most closely fits the design being sewn.
1. Hoop a piece of wash-away backing.
2. Load design lgs01221. The project design has been customized to sew a basting stitch as the first color stop. This is a shorter than normal basting stitch and it has four indents to help you with perfect placement.
3. When the machine stops, lightly mist the back of your quilt sandwich with TESA and smooth into place. In the following photo you can see I’ve used pins to mark the center. Line the pins up with the stitch markings, which should coincide with the center marking on your hoop. This technique will work on any machine. Be sure to remove the pins before sewing.
4. Sew the second round of basting to attach the fabric securely to the stabilizer. These basting lines mark a 4” wide area that can later be used as guides when trimming your fabric to size after embroidering.
5. Finish sewing the design.
6. Remove from hoop and trim way excess Wash-Away. Use a rotary cutter and ruler to trim the wrap to the desired size. You don’t need to add any extra for seams if you are binding the edges. Remove basting stitches.
Finish the Wrap
The wrap is held onto the container with buttons and elastic loops. The elastic loops allow for some give and require less precision (and work!) than normal button holes. Other options for fastening include ties. I used 3 mismatched buttons from the button jar.
1. Position the elastic loops at one short end of the wrap, matching raw edges. The top and bottom loops are 3/4” in from the closest edge and the middle one is centered. Stitch over your loops to secure. A shortened zigzag stitch works very well. Give a tug on the open ends of each loop to make sure they are secure.
2. Attach the binding, mitering the corners. If you don’t know how to miter corners, see separate steps below.
3. Press the binding open and fold over to back covering the raw edge. I prefer to hand stitch on the back; choose any method you prefer, such as top stitching or fusing, if desired.
4. Attach buttons, positioning them along the binding seam line to match the loops.
5. Soak out the Wash-Away stabilizer while you finish the rest of the project.
Be sure that all the TESA has dissipated before wetting your project. To force dissipate, press with a dry iron.
How to Miter a Corner when Binding
1. With raw edges matching and right sides together, sew binding to the edge of the wrap using a 1/4” seam. Start on a long edge at least 1” from the corner.
2. Sew to 1/4” from the next corner, back stitch and cut threads.
3. Rotate the fabric for the next seam and fold back the binding fabric so that it’s at right angles to the previously stitched binding.
4. Pin at the previous seam line.
5. Fold the binding strip straight down matching raw edges of the wrap. The fold line matches the raw edge of the previous seam.
Repin to mark the starting point 1/4” from the top edge and at the edge of the diagonal fold of the miter. Remove pin before sewing. Sew to within a quarter inch of the next corner and repeat.
Finish the Lid Rim
1. Stretch the rim cover you made in step 3 of Preparation over the lid. The folded edge is at the bottom of the rim and the raw edges should be sticking up beyond the top. Using the hot glue gun, squirt glue in between the fabric and rim and press in place.
I tried applying the glue before stretching the fabric on and this proved to be a mess. The glue just cooled too quickly and I couldn’t get the fabric positioned ideally.
2. Apply hot glue to the lid and wrap the raw edge of the rim wrap over the lid edge and glue to lid. You’ll need to glue each layer of fabric individually.
Finish the Pin Cushion
1. Cut a stack of fleece circles to pad the lid. The amount is up to you as to how padded and pouffy you want the lid.
2. Cut your embroidered lid cover into a circle large enough to cover the padding and wrap under the cardboard. I used a soup bowl (6-1/2” diameter) to trace a circle. Trim back the stabilizer and batting as required for your lid to allow a smooth gathering.
3. Run a basting stitch 1/4” or so from the edge. You can do this by hand or machine.
4. Layer the batting pieces on top of the cardboard, cover with the embroidery (face up), and then tighten the gathering thread over the cardboard side, adjusting fullness evenly.
5. When the cushion is covered, secure the thread and hot glue the fabric to the cardboard.
6. Hot glue the pin cushion to the lid by applying glue to the lid and the firmly pressing the assembled pin cushion into place.
Fill Your Button Jar & Enjoy
These little container covers are easy to make and are perfect for gift giving. With simple modifications and a design change, you can cover boxes and jars for all sorts of storage containers!
