In-the-Hoop Accessory Bag

Ever wish you could press a button on your sewing machine and it would sew in a zipper for you? Or better yet, how about insert a zipper, line a small accessory bag in just one hooping, and stitch the whole thing together? Well, you can!

You will have to do a little finishing work but it can be an entirely no-sew finish!

About These Designs

These in-the-hoop zip bags are very basic and can be easily modified to work with many designs by eliminating color 4 and replacing it with another design. To see how to do that, check out this YouTube video that shows how to edit a redwork design into a new border and insert it into a plain version of this bag. How to Extract & Edit a Design in Embrilliance Enthusiast.

In that video, which goes along with the Echidna P.I.E. series of lessons, a similar but plain version of this bag was customized.

These bags are fully lined with no exposed seams. The front pieces are self-lined while the back panel and lining fabrics can be different. The front is lightly padded with a low loft batting for some slight dimension with the quilting design; the back is plain. If you’re working with quilt weight cottons or lighter, I recommend interfacing the back panel for a more sturdier, professional finish, especially on the larger ones.

There are many methods for inserting a zipper and lining a bag for an in-the-hoop design. This method happens to be one of the easiest to follow because it has fewer steps and the bag can be completed in just one hooping. The drawback is that the stabilizer will be exposed on the inside front of the bag so don’t use a cutaway. And, with the quilting motif I used on the front, it can make picking out a tearaway tedious. Since no pressing in the hoop is required, a washaway fiber stabilizer is a good choice. However, pressing is required for finishing and these stabilizers can shrink with heat, wrinkling your project if not removed first.

For that reason, I prefer to use wash-away tearaway. This product tears relatively easily but it doesn’t tear cleanly, leaving fibers behind. Most of this will wash out with the first laundering. A regular tearaway could also be used but it will be difficult to pick out of a quilting design.

Another consideration with this construction technique is that the back of the embroidery will be exposed on the inside front panel. The back inside panel is more visible when opening and using the bag so you might not even notice if there’s stitching on the inside front. Using a quilting design on the front is not as objectionable as if you replaced that step with a more stitch intensive design, especially if you use a matching bobbin thread.

If you don’t want the back of the embroidery to be exposed on the inside of the bag, then consider embroidering the fabric first, and then sewing the basic bag design. You could even embroider the back piece before attaching it.

This is an easy project and as long as you follow the steps, you’ll have no problems. And it’s great fun to say, “my embroidery machine made this, even putting in the zipper!” I broken out every step and provided optional enhancements here and there, but really, once you’ve made one, you’ll find them really quite easy.

I made my own straps for the bags that feature them. If you don’t want to do this extra sewing, you can purchase a premade strap or use ribbon or strapping to add one. The small 4x4” bag only has one placement option for a loop, whereas the larger bags offer multiple placements for either a wristlet style handle or a shoulder strap.

Multiple Sizes

There are 3 sizes of these in-the-hoop zippered bags in this series and the process is the same for each size. The only difference is that the larger ones have more placement options for straps and handles. These directions apply to all sizes in this set.

Design Choices

This set includes 5 different styles with each in 3 sizes. Make your choices based on size and the quilting pattern. Some patterns are bolder than others and may compete with your fabric choices. The stippled version is only a single run instead of the usual triple or bean stitch and while the stitching is denser, it’s less prominent. You can add a loop with or without hardware. Your loop can be ribbon, self fabric, rickrack or even a leftover bit of zipper tape

Zippers can coordinate or contrast. You can even swap out the zipper tabs or have your zipper composed of two different colors.

These zip bags use 4 pieces of fabric, which can be all different, all the same, or otherwise coordinated.

You can fussy cut the fabrics to showcase a print. I’ve fussy cut the orange dot print to center one of the circles on the front and back.

The quilting motif can be skipped or even replaced with another design, such as a monogram selected from your machine’s built in designs or any other suitable design from your stash. Do keep in mind that with the simple construction of this bag, the back of the design will be exposed on the inside front panel of the bag. Also, if you plan to omit the decorative stitching, you’ll want to make sure the batting extends into the seam allowance.

Another choice you can make is thread color. The design uses the same color to attach both the bottom front of the bag and the top front of bag, which top stitches along the zipper edge. These two areas are separated by a jump stitch so you could stop the machine and switch in a different color for the upper part.

Color Sequences

The design file itself is a multi-color design that can be sewn in all one color, as I did with this sample. The color changes are primarily designed to stop the machine to perform the various steps. Colors 3 and 4 are the most visible, so choose threads that coordinate with your fabrics.

Any stitches that are for construction are either double or triple stitched, so polyester embroidery thread is just fine.

Skill Level

• Basic embroidery skills
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What You’ll Learn

• How to create a lined zippered bag entirely in one hooping
• Some simple customizing options

What’s Included in This Set

• 15 multi-format embroidery designs: 5 styles in 3 sizes each
• Printable patterns for each size
• These instructions to complete

Note About Links

In some cases, links to external web sites are included for more information on a technique or product. All the links were active at the time of writing but web sites can vanish and pages can change. If a link is no longer working, please let me know and then just use a search tool to see if the information can be found elsewhere.

Please read through all instructions before starting your project! <./p>

Resizing can change the placement of the zipper stitches and is therefore not recommended.

Supplies

• Small bits of fabric or pick up some fat quarters. Actual amounts depend on which bag you are making and how many. Use the included patterns as a guide for fabric requirements.
• Thin cotton batting like Warm and Natural (only the front pieces are padded)
• Fusible interfacing for the back piece (I used Pellon 950F ShirTailor)
• Polyester or nylon zipper that coordinates with your fabric and is at least 2” longer than the bag’s longer dimension. DO NOT USE A METAL ZIPPER!
• Tearaway or Wash-Away stabilizer; do not use cutaway. I used washaway tearaway; Hemingworth Wash-Away water soluble or Sulky Fabri Solvy also works. DO NOT USE CUTAWAY. STABILIZER IS EXPOSED ON THE INSIDE AND NEEDS TO BE REMOVED.
• Coordinating embroidery thread. Polyester embroidery thread is recommended over rayon for any seam stitching during the bag construction.
  Optional: You may wish to wind a matching bobbin for the designs but the back won’t be that prominent unless you turn the bag inside out.
• Decorative thread of your choice for the quilting area and the front fabric tackdown, which includes the zipper top stitching.
• Cellophane tape or other tape that won’t gum up the needle when sewn through (I used painter’s tape for the photos)
• Wonder Tape (sew through, double stick washaway tape, optional)

Equipment

• Embroidery machine with a minimum sewing field large enough for the design you’ve selected
• Steam iron

Optional

• Narrow ribbon or constructed self-fabric strip for loop, handle, or strap
• Hardware for the optional loop: D-ring, swivel hook or other. I made my finished loop handle 3/4” wide to use as a wristlet. Choose hardware size based on your strap width or adjust your strap to fit the hardware. Thinner less bulky hardware is best.
• Small strip of fusible web for appliqué for closing the opening (or hand stitch with needle and thread)
• TESA (temporary embroidery spray adhesive)
• Decorative pull or tie for the zipper tab

Instructions

Normally the best hoop size is one just larger than the design. If you have a larger hoop, you’ll have more free space around the design to tape various elements to the stabilizer where the tape is outside the stitching area.

You may want to raise your presser foot height slightly to avoid “tripping” over various pieces and causing them to shift.

Getting Started

1. Print the corresponding pattern.

Full size patterns are included with the full collection. When printing, make sure to print at actual size. Guides are included on the pattern to permit pattern matching and fussy cutting,

2. Optional: Make a template for fussy cutting.

I traced key landmarks onto a piece of quilter’s template to make it easy to plan patterns for my project. I used this for both the front body area and the back panel to get the circular pattern on the fabric centered in those areas.

3. Select and cut all your fabric and batting pieces

Using the full size pattern piece with the added seam allowances, cut one for the back and one for the lining. Cut one piece out of fusible interfacing and apply it to the wrong side of the back piece.

Interfacing is not really needed on sturdy fabrics on small bags. The larger the bag, the more the interfacing can improve the appearance.

To minimize bulk in the seam allowances and make the turned edges crisper, cut the batting just inside the stitching line and fold line.

The fabrics for the front are folded in half with the folded edge placed next to the zipper. Fold the fabrics, wrong sides together along the zipper edge and press. Insert the batting and snug it up to the folded edge. Press again

Pay attention if your fabric has any directional prints.

Optionally, you can add a seam allowance on the zipper side of the front panels and piece on the lining. This can make better use of small bits of fabric and allow you to match the lining.

You can mix and match your fabrics as desired. I didn’t have a zipper that blended with my bag fabrics, so I chose a contrasting zipper and added in some fabrics to match the zipper.

4. Press all fabrics and starch if desired.

Starching isn’t necessary but if you aren’t interfacing your fabrics, it can give them a little more structure for stitching. Fold each of the front pieces in half horizontally; press. Insert the corresponding batting pieces, snugging them up to the fold.

5. Apply interfacing to the back panel.

Interfacing adds some nice body to your bag and can give it a more polished look. Since only the front has batting, the back can seem rather insubstantial in comparison. Optionally, you can interface the back lining as well for a sturdier bag. Don’t go too heavy or your bag will be more difficult to turn.

Be sure to fuse the interfacing securely so that it won’t separate when turning the bag right side out.

6. Optional: Loop Handle.

Make a self-fabric loop or cut a length of ribbon or strapping for a short handle loop/strap or hanging loop with hardware. To determine the length, decide how long the loop should be, for example 2”, double that and add ½” for the seam allowance.

For a self fabric handle on the sample shown here, I cut a strip 2 1/2″ wide and interfaced it. If your fabric is pretty sturdy, you can skip the interfacing because the handle will be 4 layers thick when done.

If you’re using hardware, determine the width by measuring the opening. Your fabric width needs to be slightly less than four times that measurement to fill out the space

Press the strip in half lengthwise. Then open the strip and press each long edge matching the raw edge to the center fold. Refold the piece and press well. Once again, starch is your friend!

Top stitch 1/8” from the edges starting on the side with the two folded edges.

If you’re adding hardware, slide it on now, making sure the prettiest side of your top stitching will be on the outside when folded in half. Top stitch across the loop near the hardware to hold it in place.

Embroidery

This project is made in just one hooping! Although the designs are relatively low stitch count, don’t underestimate the time it takes to complete them. You’ll need to remove the hoop and place pieces multiple times. Take your time and place pieces carefully for a successful results.

1. Hoop stabilizer securely between the rings of your hoop.

Smaller hoops are generally more secure than larger ones with long straight sides. If your stabilizer slips during stitching, you’ll experience problems. Take any necessary measures to prevent slippage.

One way is with duct tape. Tear strips in half lengthwise, apply to the back of the stabilizer along the hoop edges and wrap up and around the sides of the hoop. (I do this a lot! It’s better to be safe than sorry.

2. Stitch color 1 for placement lines.

I’ve stitched color 1 in black for visibility for the photos. Normally I would use the same color that I’ll use for color 3, which top stitches the zipper and stitches the front panels to the stabilizer. Although there are many color stops in this design, you can usually get by with just 1 or 2 colors.

Color 1 sews directly onto the stabilizer only. Small indents mark the horizontal and vertical centers for assisting with precise placement of patterned fabrics. The two registration marks at the top and bottom indicate the overall bag center and the center of the main body area. These can help you if you choose to edit in another design.

Once you place your fabrics, this guides will no longer be visible so if you plan to use them, simply extend them onto the stabilizer with a pen. This stabilizer will be removed later so any marker will work.

3. Tape the zipper in place.

Align the closed zipper, right side up, with the zipper tab at the top of the design making sure the metal ends are well outside the stitch line. The zipper will perfectly fit within the blank area of the stitching guides.

I prefer to keep the long extension off the top instead of centering the zipper over the space. That way I can use the leftover bits for other decorative purposes.

On very long zippers, I like to unzip it so that I can see the zipper tab as a visual reminder to move it into the bag area when it’s time!

I like to apply strips of water soluble fusible Wonder Tape within the zipper placement guides to secure the zipper for stitching. Wonder Tape will hold the zipper more securely and reduce shifting.

Alternatively, you can use tape to hold the zipper in place. I’m using painter’s tape to make it more visible but regular invisible tape works well too. Neither one will gum up the needle; the invisible tape is easier to remove without tearing stitches.

If your zipper isn’t smooth, press it before taping.

4. Stitch the zipper to the stabilizer.

Return the hoop to the machine and sew color 2, which will baste the zipper to the stabilizer. Remove the hoop from the machine and remove the tape. Trim any jump stitches if your machine didn’t trim them for you.

If you can remove the tape without disrupting the stabilizer, I recommend removing any tape that’s no longer needed as you go.

IMPORTANT! If your machine doesn’t have auto-trimmers, be sure to clip jump threads not only on the top, but on the bottom. You’ll need to remove the hoop to trim the bottom threads.

5. Place the front fabric panels.

Place the front fabric panels with the folded edges aligned near the zipper teeth. Make sure the batting is within the placement lines and up against the fold line.

You can hold the pieces in place with more Wonder Tape, regular tape, or pins. If you use pins, either remove them as you stitch to avoid sewing over them or make sure they are out of the range of the presser foot and needle.

Position the fabrics near the zipper, making sure the folded edge covers the zipper tack down stitching. The top stitching will sew between the tackdown stitching and the zipper teeth so there is a bit of leeway.

The fabric should not cover the teeth. Tape the fabric into place, taking care that it’s straight and the spacing is even on both sides of the zipper.

You can check your placement by advancing 1 stitch at the machine to see where the top stitching will begin.

6. Sew color 3 to top stitch the fabric to the zipper and baste the fabric to the stabilizer.

Before stitching, move the needle to the first stitch in this color to check the placement of the stitching to make sure it’s not too close to the folded edge.

If you want a different color for the top stitching on each panel, load the thread for the body panel (to the right of the zipper) first. When the needle gets back around to the top of the design, stop the machine and swap in the color for the top front panel (to the left of the zipper).

Trim any jump stitches if your machine didn’t trim them for you.

Choose an appropriate color for this step since the zipper top stitching will be visible. I usually coordinate with the fabric but you may prefer one that matches the zipper.

7. Sew color 4 to quilt the front lower panel.

If you cut your batting so as not to extend into the seams, you’ll want to keep this stitching. If you prefer to skip the decorative stitching, cut the batting large enough to extend into the seam allowances or omit the batting, especially on the large sizes.

8. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Move the zipper tab to within the design.

The zipper pull is currently at the top of the zipper and therefore beyond the outside seam. If you continue without moving the zipper pull within the bag, you won’t be able to open your bag. Pull the zipper tab to somewhere in the middle of the design.

Note 1: Some ITH projects are turned right side out through the zipper opening; this one isn’t so anywhere in the middle is just fine.

Note 2: If you forgot to clip the jump stitch as noted previously, you’ll have have trouble pulling the zipper to the center.

9. Add optional loop and hardware.

Depending on the size you are stitching, there are up to 3 placements for straps, loops, or handles. These placements, which are set as a different color stop, are short segments of stay stitching. Skip past any segments you don’t need.

If you aren’t adding a loop, advance to the next color and skip to the next step 11.

With the wrong sides together, fold over the loop, matching the raw edges. If you’re adding hardware, slip it on when folding the loop.

Position the loop or handle at the top of the design centered over the zipper or at one of the alternate placements. The matching raw edges of the zipper should match or extend beyond the edge of the fabric. Tape in place.

I’ve stacked my handle in the previous photo and even with the tape, the presser foot may not be able to glide over the extra thickness. To avoid pushing the strap, advance the needle stitch by stitch until the needle is over the strap before pressing start.

Alternatively, you can position the strap ends side by side instead of stacked.

The larger bags have additional placement options for a shoulder strap. Refer to the color sequences to see what’s included.

10. Return hoop to the machine and sew the next color to stay stitch loop.

After stay stitching the loop, remove the hoop and remove the tape at the seam line. If you used hardware, tape it so it won’t slip into the needle’s path. Take care, too, that the hardware is not taped near the center of the hoop. The needle will return to home (center of the hoop) and hardware may trip the foot or cause a machine problem in the hoop can’t move.

If your loop is long, just tape it out of range of the left side seam.

11. Optional: Add some pockets.

The larger bags have enough space to add a pocket to the inside lining, or even an additional pocket on the back. The biggest concern is adding too much bulk that can’t fit through the turn opening, which I’ve made larger on the larger bags for that very reason.

12. Attach the lining and back fabrics.

Turn the hoop face down and place the lining fabric face down on the bottom of the hoop. If your fabric has a directional print, make sure you place the top towards the zipper side.

You may want to lightly TESA the fabric before smoothing it into place. Tape the corners to keep the fabric from lifting out of place during stitching.

Turn the hoop over (right side up) and place the back fabric face down over the front of the design, making sure it is oriented properly and match any points as needed. Secure with tape or pins.

Pay careful attention to where the fabrics go and make sure they are face down!

13. Sew the final (outer) seam.

Return the hoop to the machine and stitch the final color to attach all the pieces together. This seam is a double pass, which should be secure enough with polyester embroidery thread.

Here’s a good place to switch to construction thread in the needle and bobbin, especially if your fabrics are thick or heavy. Even though the seam is double stitched, it can tend to pull apart and “ladder,” which is likely due to the thread tensions in embroidery mode.

Finishing the Bag

1. Unhoop the design and trim off excess.

If you used a tearaway, carefully tear away excess stabilizer along seam allowance before trimming off seam allowances and excess zipper tape.

If your batting extends into the seam allowances, trim back the batting as close as possible to the seam to minimize bulk before trimming the seam allowances

Note the open area at the bottom of the bag left for turning. You’ll want to leave an extended seam allowance at the turn area to make it easier to finish.

Trim around the rest of the bag leaving about a 1/4” seam allowance. Using pinking shears around the corners can help reduce bulk and make them easier to turn.

If your fabrics are thick, grading the seams can improve the appearance.

2. Turn the bag right side out through the opening. Before turning, press up the seam allowance extensions.

Reach inside the opening between the back lining and the rest of the bag with your thumb and pinch one of the far corners between your thumb and finger and turn it right side out through the bottom opening. This is a preliminary turn and you’ll be turning it wrong side out through the zipper opening in just a moment to remove the stabilizer.

Although the seams are double stitched and quite sturdy, be gentle so as not to rip any stitches. It will come through easily if you grasp the single layer back piece of lining fabric.

Remove any remaining tape.

Once you have it turned, use your favorite tool to push out the four corners. I found the blunt end (the non-working end) of my tweezers worked well.

3. Free the zipper.

Tear away the stabilizer behind the zipper and then turn inside out. Carefully remove the stabilizer inside the bag. Some designs are easier than others to get out the stabilizer.

I picked out the bulk of the stabilizer and if this bag is ever washed, the remaining will wash out.

If you used a washaway water soluble product instead of a tearaway, a small paint brush dipped in hot water and applied along the stitching lines will free it up so it can be pulled out. Make sure this stabilizer is removed before pressing or you can experience severe puckering due to the stabilize shrinking.

This exposed stabilizer is the reason not to use cutaway. In some ITH bag techniques, the stabilizer will be enclosed within the project and will never be seen.

4. Turn the project right side out and press.

Turn right side out, taking time to push out the corners smoothly. I found the blunt end (the non-working end) of my tweezers worked well.

Tuck the seam extension into place. Press well using steam.

Fold the back panel seam in by itself. Then group the lined front panel and the back lining together and press under as a unit. This will place the seam allowances between the back panel and the lining.

Pressing is vital to achieving a professional looking project. A good press can make the difference between “home made” and “hand made.”

While this bag has no exposed seams on the inside, you’ll notice that the lining doesn’t lie perfectly smoothly and evenly. This has to do with the interior of the bag being smaller than the exterior after turning right side out. It’s just something that happens when lining is made to the same dimensions as the exterior.

5. Finish the open seam of the turn area.

Carefully trim away any batting in the seam extension to reduce bulk. Tuck the extensions in neatly and press well. Tuck the seam allowance of the front panel and back lining into the space between the back lining and the back panel.

You can fuse the seam allowances together with a strip of heat fusible web or hand stitch.

6. Optional: Add a zipper pull.

Add a ribbon, tie or decorative pull to the zipper tab.

Make Another One!

Once you’ve made your first bag, you’ll have the process down and you can start experimenting. Try swapping in other designs for the quilting used. Use different fabrics. Choose a water proof lining for a makeup bag. Try adding pockets.

Give It a Go!

In-the-hoop projects are popular and can range from very simple to highly complex. These little bags are great for organizing small supplies, perfect for traveling, and make excellent gifts. You can make multiples using coordinating fabrics and hook them together when you need more organization or space.

Now that you’ve learned the basics, check out other, more advanced projects. Would you believe that this owl mini-reader bag can be made in the same size hoop we used for this project?
Yes, it requires more hoopings, more steps, and more hand finishing, but your embroidery machine does most of the work!